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LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. 1 



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UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 



OUR 



Insect Foes 



How to Deal With. 




PUBLISHED BY THE 

POPULAR GARDENING PUB. CO., 

BUFFALO, N. Y. 



p 



OPULAR GARDENING 

and FRUIT GROWING. 



HPHIS is a monthly journal devoted to all branches of practical horticulture, 
and alike useful to those who garden for profit or for pleasure. In charac- 
ter it is bright, terse and readable, great pains being taken by its managers to 
have every article in its columns directly useful and instructive. It is profusely 
illustrated, in this respect standing unequaled by any other periodical of its 
class in the world. 

Although this journal is but in its third year, it has by its enterprise ab- 
sorbed the entire subscription lists and properties, by purchase, of the following 
papers: Fruit Recorder, Kochester, N. Y. ; American Horticulturist, Detroit, 
Mich.; Floral World, Chicago, 111.; Garden Review, New York; Ohio Horticul- 
turist, Warren, Ohio. With the purchase of these, it also has retained in most 
cases their editors and special contributors, combining all on the present journal, 
to the making of the largest and most complete paper of its kind ever published 
in America. Subscription price, $1.00 per year. Specimen copies ten cents 
each. Address, 

Popular Gardening and Fruit Growing, 

BUFFALO, N. Y. 



OUR INSECT FOES; 



HOW TO DEAL WITH. 



INTRODUCTION. 




ACCORDING to the census of 1880 it is computed 
that the aggregate losses from injurious insects in 
the United States equals two hundred millions of dollars 
a year, while able economic entomologists are not wanting 
who place the loss at least one-half higher. It is esti- 
mated that the Apple Worm or Codling Moth alone has 
in recent years destroyed nearly one-half of the Apple 
crop of the country, representing to our fruit growers a 
loss that runs high into millions of dollars yearly. 
But along with the marked increase of injurious insects in late years, there has 
happily been increased activity also on the part of cultivators and of the National and 
State Governments, in devising means and remedies for successfully destroying the 
former. And with excellent results too, for it is most gratifying to note that at the 
present time hardly a single formidable insect enemy to the horticulturist exists but 
that there is also some simple remedy known for its destruction, or at least for greatly 
lessening the force of its damaging attacks. 

It is for the purpose of bringing before the cultivators of the country at this time a 
summing up of the most approved methods for dealing with our more prominent insect 
enemies that the present treatise has been published. 

In its preparation I have been fortunate in receiving valued help from Prof. A. J. 
Cook, of the Michigan Agricultural College, (Agricultural College P. O., Michigan), a 
gentleman, whose close study and many experiments in the field of our insect foes, as 
well as in that of the Honey Bee, has made his name widely famous; and also from 



D. B. Wier, of Lacon, HI. Mention is also gratefully made of the works of such eminent 
entomologists as Prof. J. A. Lintner, of Albany, N.Y., Prof. C.V. Biley, Washington, D. C, 
and of those of Dr. Harris ; besides of the assistance of other practical cultivators and 
observers. Together, it is believed that the collection of remedies brought within the 
following pages, possess such value as will enable every cultivator of trees, plants, and 
flowers to very successfully cope with the multiple foe. 

In conclusion, however, let the fact be impressed that no insect remedy can prove 
successful unless it be applied promptly at the proper time, hence it is urged that what- 
ever is done in the war against this enemy be done early, vigorously, and with all due 
persistence. 

ELIAS A. LONG, 

BUFFALO, N. Y., February 1, 1887. Editor of Popular Gardening and 

7 Fruit Growing. 




Copyrighted 1888. 'Tfef^ Popular Gardening Pub. £o. 



OUR INSECT FOES; 



HOW TO DEAL WITH. 



Alum Water. See Remedy 5. 

Ants. (Formica). These very common 
insects are sometimes troublesome not only 
from their manner of throwing up hills, but 
also through being destructive to vegetation. 

Remedy 1. Trapping with Sunken Bottle in 
Hills. The advantage of this course is that no 
injury can possibly result to the roots of adja- 
cent plants, as is the case when scalding remedies 
are applied. The mouth of the bottle should be 
even with the surface of the hill, and it should 
be partly filled with sweetened water. 

Bern. 2. Trapping 
with Sponge. Obtain 
pieces of coarse sponge. 
Dip them in sweetened 
water and place on old 
dishes where the Ants 
abound. When they are 
black with Ants throw 
them into boiling water, 
afterwards washing 
them out and renewing 
the process till the col- 
ony is destroyed. 

Rem. 3. Fresh Bones. 
By laying these where Ants are troublesome 
they will quickly gather on them. When these 
are black dip in scalding water, repeating the 
operation. 

Rem. 4. Molasses and Poison. Place a dish con- 
taining some molasses in which a small quan- 
tity of arsenical poison or cyanide of potassium 
has been mixed; or the same may be spread on 
trees, fences, leaves, and other frequented places. 



Rem. 5. Destroying in Nest. Apply boiling 
water, hot alum water (prepared by dissolving 
one pound of common alum in three gallons of 
rain water, and heating) or soluble phenyle 
water, (prepared by dissolving three spoonfuls of 
fluid to four gallons of water) freely to the nest. 

Aphis or Plant Lice. It is probable that 
every kind of tree, shrub, flowering plant 
and herb has some species of louse of the 
family of Aphididse infesting it. The com- 
mon Green, Black and Blue Lice which 
trouble our house, greenhouse and garden 




Fig. 2. Aphis or Plant Louse Greatly enlarged; an Ant " milking " the same. 

plants, those of similar colors infesting the 
Apple, Cherry and other fruit trees, besides 
numerous ornamental trees and shrubs, af- 
ford familiar examples. The past year or 
two has found the kinds which trouble fruit 
trees, and especially the Apple, unusually 
prevalent in many sections, causing on the 
whole immense damage. 



4 



OUR INSECT FOES; 



Rem. 6. Kerosene Emulsion. It is fully proven 
that the kerosene soap and mixture when 
rightly applied will surely kill plant lice. I (Pro- 
fessor Cook) use one quart of soft soap, one pint 
of kerosene oil, and two quarts of water. These 
are mixed and stirred until a permanent union 
is formed. One quarter pound of whale oil soap 
may replace the soft soap. A good way to mix 
them is to use a good force pump, and force the 
liquid back into the vessel containing it. This 





Fig. 3. The Hose in the 
tree top. Applying the 
kerosene emulsion or 
other poisons. 



stirs the mixture so 
violently that a per- 
manent mixture is soon 
formed. This liquid is 
then diluted with four 
gallons of water. To 
use this it should be ap- 
plied by the use of a 
good spray nozzle, and 
powerful force pump, 
which I have found the 
best for all purposes. 
This throws a fine spray with great force, 
and thus is very sure to touch all lice, and 
yet is so dilute that the plants are not injured, 
and the fine spray insures economy as well as 
safety. Of course it goes without saying that 
the leaves, especially when they roll up, as 
they often do in such plants as the Snowball, 
if attacked by the lice, are a serious obstacle 
in the way of making this application. The 
liquid must touch every louse. This is more 
likely when applied with great force as sug- 
gested above. Yet even then, though every 
pains be taken, the lice will not all be reached. 
The past spring we found that the young lice on 
the buds, and even the eggs, just before hatch- 
ing, were alike susceptible to this treatment. At 
this time there was no foliage to interfere, and 
so it was not difficult to make very thorough 
work. I recommend, especially to nurserymen, 
that they learn to detect the little dark eggs 
which are usually spread thickly in and about 



the buds, where they were placed by the mother 
louse the previous fall, and if they are found 
very common, that he apply the kerosene mix- 
ture early, just as the buds are swelling prepara- 
tory to bursting. 

Rem. 7. Coal Tar Fumes. Mr. Crane, a success- 
ful fruit grower of Lockport, N. Y., states that he 
has found the burning of a wad of rags attached 
to a pole and coated with coal tar, a safe and 
complete remedy for the Aphis. Plum trees' that 
were black with this pest were, by a few applica- 
tions, perfectly cleaned. The wad should be 
burned underneath and not too near the foliage. 

Rem. 8. Tobacco Water, Dust, etc. For use 
on a small scale as about Roses, Geraniums, 
Salvias, Verbenas, Chrysanthemums, flowering 
shrubs, etc., the old remedy of whale oil soap and 
tobacco water, or the more recent and more con- 
venient one of sprinkling the affected parts 
with tobacco dust, are effective. 

Rem. 9. Fumigation with Tobacco. For dealing 
with this pest in the greenhouse fumigation with 
tobacco is almost universally practiced. This 
consists in burning dampened tobacco stems 
from the cigar maker's two or three times a 
week in all grenhouses 
during the season, to 
serve both as a remedy 
and a preventive. One 
pound for each five 
hundred feet of glass 
will usually suffice. A 
simple way of using the 
tobacco is to place the 
above quantity on a 
handful of lighted shav- 
ings, either on the floor 
or in a f umigator made 
for the purpose, which 
will cause a dense 
smoke. On a cement^ 
floor the fire needs no f or throwing Liquids. 
attention, as it quickly 

dies out, but with a wooden one or with wood 
near by, care will be required to protect it with 
sheets of metal or otherwise. 

Rem. 10. Nicotyl. In the greenhouse and win- 
dow garden, as well as under low bushes outdoors, 
Nicotyl vapor, produced by. steeping tobacco, 
stems in water and causing the latter to e vapor- 




HOW TO DEAL WITH. 



ate, or by simply scattering moistened tobacco 
stems between the plants, is one of the most sim- 
ple and complete remedies known for these in- 
sects. The vaporizer shown in Fig. 21 is a capital 
thing where special regard to neatness is re- 
quired in the use of the tobacco liquid, but it is 
no better than a lamp set under a shallow pan. 

Rem. 11. Para ffl ne Oil. When young Larches, 
Pines, or other plants are infested, by watering 
them at intervals of three or four days for about 
three weeks with diluted paraffine in the propor- 
tion of a wineglassful to a watering can of 
water, they may be saved and restored to health. 

Rem. 12. Hot Water. To submerge affected 
plants or branches in water of a temperature of 
about 125° or 130° will kill Aphis. 

Rem. 13. Colonizing the Lady-bug. The com- 
mon Lady-bug (see Fig. 18) (Coccinellida*) is an 
insectivorous beetle that destroys the Aphis with 
avidity. By encouraging the presence of this in- 
sect on house and other plants, the lice may be 
completely kept down. 

Rem. 14. Promoting Growth. It should perhaps 
be stated that plant lice, as well as all other insects, 
are always more troublesome on plants or trees 
in an enfeebled condition than on others. Any 
course that tends to promote vigor will be help- 
ful in withstanding their attacks. 

Apple Worm or Codling Moth. (Carpocap- 
sa pomonella Linn). For this most injuri- 
ous insect a very complete remedy is now in 
use, one easy of application, and which, if 




Fig. 5. Tlie Codling 
Moth, (perfect in- 
sect of Apple 
Worm). 




Fig. 6. The 
young Apple 
worm work- 
ing in tow- 
ards the core. 



rightly used, will result in saving at least 
seventy per cent of the Apples commonly 
lost by its ravages. The remedy is the ar- 
senical poison found in both of those well 
known insecticides, Paris Green and Lon- 



don Purple. Referring to the use in detail 
of these remedies, Professor A. J. Cook 
gives the following: 

Rem. 15. Liquid Arsenical Poisons— London 
Purple or Paris Green. The best remedy for the 
Codling Moth is to use either London Purple or 




Fig. 7. Worm of Codling Moth in the matured Apple. 

Paris Green. The remedy is not only efficient, 
but is also easy of application, and not expen- 
sive. I have now tried this thoroughly for six 
years, and in each and every case have been 
more than pleased with its excellence. I know 
of no one who has tried it in vain. The past sea- 
son has shown that in using Paris Green or Lon- 
don Purple— the last seems preferable, as it is 
cheaper, more readily mixed, and very effective 
—one pound to one hundred (100) gallons of 
water is quite strong enough. It is best to wet 
the powder thoroughly and make a paste before 
putting it into the vessel of water, that it may all 
mix, and not form lumps, It is best to apply the 
mixture as soon as the blossoms fall, and again 
in three weeks, in case of any heavy rain. Usu- 
ally I have found one thorough application, 
made early, so effective that I have wondered 
whether it was best or necessary to make more 
than one. I do think, however, that it must be 
early. In May and June the calyx of the Apple is 



OUR INSECT FOES; 



up, (see Fig. 6) and so the poison is retained suffi- 
ciently long to kill most all of the insects. For a 
few trees we may use a pail, and a hand force 
pump, always keeping the liquid well stirred. 
One common pail of liquid will suffice for the 
largest tree. A teaspoonful of the poison is 
enough in a pailful of water. For a large orch- 
ard common barrels should be used, and drawn 
in a wagon. I prefer to have the barrels stand 
on end, with a close movable float, with two 
holes through it, one for the pipe or hose from 
the pump, and the other for a stirrer. If very 
large orchards are to be treated a good force 
pump should be fastened to the barrel. In western 
New York the handle of the pump is connected 
with the wagon wheel so that no hand power 
is required other than to drive the team and 
manage the pipe which carries the spray. The 
spray may be caused by a fine perforated nozzle 
or a cyclone nozzle. The finer it is the less liquid 
will be required. In treating an orchard the 
great point is to be thorough. If a still day can 
be had I would drive on a very fast walk and 
drive through the orchard twice in each space, 
first north and south, then east and west, so as to 
go on all sides of each tree. This makes very 
thorough work. A stop-cock so arranged as 
to permit the instant change of water from the 
hose so that it will flow into the barrel or tank in 
case of vacancy of trees in the row is often 
convenient. Hardly any one thing on the farm 
will pay better than this spraying Apple trees 
with the arsenites. As to the danger of using, this 
amounts to nothing provided the spraying is done 
before the Apples have began to hang down- 
ward. 

Apple Maggot. This maggot, which most- 
ly infests fall Apples, but occasionally at- 
tacks winter fruit, is much to be dreaded. 
It is now a fruit enemy from New England 
to Wisconsin. From the fact that it tun- 
nels Apples through and through and thus 
utterly ruins the fruit which it attacks, 
makes it more damaging in some respects 
than even the Codling Moth. Should it be- 
come as common as the Codling Moth, and 
should it attack winter fruit generally, it 
would indeed be a serious pest. Like the 
Codling Moth, it causes the fruit to fall to 



the earth. In September and October the 
insect leaves the Apple and passes into the 
earth to pupate. 

Rem. 16. Feeding the Fruit. Feed all the 
affected Apples in early September. An enter- 




Fig.8. Asparagus infested ivith the Asparagus Beetle 
in its different stages. See Remedies 17 to 19. 

prising Michigan farmer, at my (Professor Cook) 
suggestion, made full use of this remedy, after 
suffering seriously for two years. He has ap- 
parently exterminated the pest. 

Arsenical Poisons. See Rem's. 15, 43, 84, 108. 

Asparagus Beetle. This is becoming very 

troublesome in some parts of the country in 



HOW TO DEAL WITH. 



its grub or larva state, not only eating 
through the stems of the plants, but also de- 
stroying the leaves and seeds. See Fig. 8. 

Rem. 17. Dusting with air-slacked lime on a 
quiet morning while the dew is on the plants. 

Rem. 18. Cutting the Stalks. Those infested 
should be carefully cut out and carried away 
and burned. 



Rem. 19. Fotvls. 
on the beetles. 



Employing a flock to feed 



Aster Eoot Louse. See Aphis or Lice. 

Bag or Basket Worm. This species, which 
proves not only a serious depredator to 
shade and fruit trees, but especially to the 
Arbor Vitse in some places, appears to be on 




Fig. 9. Bag Worm. A, full grown larva with bag. b, c, 
follicle and puparium cut open to show eggs, d, 
young larva with their conical upright coverings. 

the increase, and should be carefully looked 
after. During winter their dependent sacks 
or bags (See Figure 9) may be seen hanging 
on the twigs of the trees. As early as May 
of the next season the eggs on the bags 
hatch into small active larva, which crawl- 



ing on a leaf, at once begins to gnaw it, and 
construct a portable case or bag in which to 
live. 

Rem. 20. Hand Picking the Bags. The best 
method of arresting the depredations of this 
insect is to collect the cases when they have 
attained a size to permit of their easy discov- 
ery, and crush or burn them. This is a very 
effectual method, for as the female has not the 
power of flight, being without wings, and never 
leaves its case even for the deposit of its eggs, a 
tree which has once been cleared of the bags can 
only become re-infested from contact of its 
branches with another infested tree, or from 
such a proximity to it that the intermediate 
space of ground could be traversed by caterpil- 
lars driven to migration for their food. 

Rem. 21. Arsenical Poisons. Undoubtedly 
either of the arsenical insecticides (which see) 
applied to their food-plants would destroy the 
young larvae. 

Bagging Grapes. See Remedy 78. 

Baits of Potatoes, etc. See Remedy 153. 

Bands on Trees. See Remedies 39, 45. 

Bark Lice or Coccus (Coccidae). A common 
class of insects, varying very much in form 
and which are injurious to many trees, 
shrubs, and plants, hardy and tender. A 
familiar form of the genus is represented in 
the numerous scale insects that infest the 
bark of Apple, Peach, Elm and many other 
trees, as well as that of greenhouse and in- 
door plants. Of these insects in this scaly 
stage some of them are oval with slightly 
convex scales, others are decidedly convex, 
and either formed like a boat turned bottom 
side upwards, or are globular or kidney- 
shaped. Another form is found in the white 
scale on Ivy, Oleander, Orange and similar 
leaves. Still others, while in a younger 
stage of growth are mealy, hairy or woolly, 
of which the well-known Mealy Bug of our 
greenhouses and window gardens forms a 
good illustration. The insects live by in- 
serting their beaks into the bark or leaves 
and draw from the cellular substance the 



8 



OUR INSECT FOES; 



sap that nourishes them. Concerning the 
Bark Lice or Coccus on Apple trees, the 
young shoots of which in many cases are 
completely covered with them, Professor 
Cook says he has known whole orchards to 
languish because of this pest. The young 
lice appear about two or three weeks after 
the Apple blossoms fall, insert their little 
beaks— really suction pumps — and soon suck 
the sap and vigor from the trees. By Au- 
gust the full formed scale is seen, under 
which are stored 80 or more small white 
eggs which will hatch the following June. 

Rem. 22. Carbolic Acid and Soft Soap. A 
strong solution of soft soap is the old and reliable 
remedy. Professor Cook has improved on this by 
the addition of crude carbolic acid, making the 
mixture as follows: One quart of soft soap to 
two gallons of water heated to the boiling point, 
when one pint of crude carbolic acid is added, 
stirring the solution well at the same time. This 
should be applied early in June, and again some 
months later, with a cloth or scrubbing brush, to 
all affected parts. 

Rem. 23. Whiskey for Mealy Bugs and Others. 
Applied to the insects with a brush, this is an 
effective remedy. Alcohol diluted with a little 
water answers the same end. 

Rem. 24. Fir-tree Oil. This is one of the most 
recent and highly praised remedies for all species 
of Coccus. The oil is mixed with water at the 
rate of one fourth pint of the former to two and 
a half gallons of water and syringed over the 
plants about once a week. For strong-growing 
Dracenas, Crotons, etc., a somewhat larger pro- 
portion of the oil might be used. 

Rem. 25. Pyrethrum Tea or Decoction. Prof. 
E. W. Hilgard found that a tea simply prepared 
from the unground flowers of Pyrethrum, when 
sprayed from a fine rose, to be efficient even 
against the armored scale-bug of the Orange and 
Lemon, which fell off in two or three days after 
the application, while the young brood are al- 
most instantly killed. The tea should be made 
with briskly boiling water covered over closely 
to prevent evaporation, but not boiled, as that 
would seriously impair its strength. 

Rem. 26. Fish brine. This article has proved 



effective, the oil with which it is charged doubt- 
less penetrating the scale and killing the eggs 
beneath. 

Bean Weevil (Bruchus obsoletus). This 
insect is becoming quite troublesome in 
some sections. As the beetles do not ail 
emerge from the beans until spring, they 
are liable to be planted in the seed and the 
evil thereby be continued and increased. 

Rem. 27. Keeping over the Seed. If the beans 
intended for seed be tightly tied up in stout paper 
bags and be kept until the second year, there 
will then be no living beetles within them, and 
they will be equally valuable for seed. If, how- 
ever, they have been badly perforated they 
should not be used for planting, as many of 
them would not germinate. For other remedies 
see Pea Weevil. 

Bisulphide of Carbon. See Remedies 102, 
115, 120. 

Birds that Destroy Insects. (28) Besides the 
kinds named under remedies 41, 46, 47, 96, 
as destructive to certain pests, the following 
are to be classed among the most helpful 
kinds in the general warfare against insects: 
Robins (cut, and other earth worms) Swal- 
lows, Night Hawks, Purple Martins, (moth- 
Catcher) Pewees, (striped Cucumber bugs) 
Wood Thrush and Wrens, (cut worms) Cat 
Birds, (tent caterpillar) Meadow Larks, 
Woodpeckers, Crows, (wireworms) Blue- 
throated Buntings, (canker worms) Black, 
red-winged birds, Jays, Doves and Pigeons, 
Chippys, (strawberry pests) Quails, (chinch 
bugs, locusts) Whip-Poor-Wills, (moths) 
Hawks, except Cooper's, all night birds, 
Owls, etc., Tanagers and black-winged sum- 
mer Red birds, (curculios) Nut Crackers, 
Fly Catchers, Chimney Swifts, Indigo Bird, 
Chipping and Song Sparrows, Black Birds, 
Mocking Birds, Titmouses, Vireas, Orchard 
Orioles. 

Blister Beetles. Of these there are a num- 
ber of species, known as the Ash-gray, the 
Margined, the Striped, etc. 



HOW TO DEAL WITH. 



9 



Rem. 29. Beating Down. This should be done 
into a pan of water, soap suds or oil. 

Borers. (See Peach Borers, Currant Bor- 
ers, and Sugar Maple Borers.) There are 
three species of beetles that do serious in- 
jury to all parts of our country by boring 
into the Apple and other trees. The big or 
flat-headed borer, which cuts out a wide 
space just under the bark on the southwest 
side of the tree, and in case of small trees 
entirely girdling the trunk, and two species 
of beautiful longicorn or long horned 
beetles, Saperda Candida and Saperda cre- 
tata, which bore through and through, and 



out with coal tar. I apply with a brush to the 
tree up 18 inches, after first looking- for any 
borers then in the tree. It has no bad effect. As 
the tree grew, open spaces of new bark appeared 
up and down the trunk. Next year I filled these 
up. That year the bark under the tar loosened 
more or less, exposing healthy new bark. Next 
year I scraped off the rough loose scales and put 
on a new coat. That, or something else, has kept 
out borers. Any way it don't kill the trees." 

Buhach. See Pyrethrum. 

Cabbage Maggots or Club Root. See Mag- 
gots. 

Cabbage Worm. (Pieris raiphoe). This 



keep feeding for three years. The first of WO r m , produced from the eggs of the white 
these three work only one year, and seem R a pe Butterfly, represented by Figure 10, is 



most destructive to trees that are not quite 
up to the standard in vigor. Thus newly 
set trees are specially susceptible to the at- 
tack of this beetle. All three of these in- 
sects lay their eggs in June and July, and 
all may be best treated in the same way and 
at the same time. 

Rem. 30. Preventing Egg-laying. My experi- 
ence has met with excellent success by use of soft 
soap. I rub the trunk and main branches with 
this, early in June, and again three or four 
weeks later. If I can make but one application, 
I use the crude carboMc acid and soft soap rem- 
edy No. 33. With this, and ungloved hands, and 
uncovered arms, I, by use of a cloth, rub the 
whole trunk and large limbs of the tree, using 
care not to sprinkle the f oliage. In case the 
acid is very strong it might kill the foliage. 
This is applied to the trees, two weeks after the 
blossoms fall.— Professor Cook. 

-Rem. 31. Probing for the Borers. See 103. 

Rem. 32 . Coal Tar Paper— Bands of paper thor- 
oughly saturated with coal tar, and eighteen 
inches wide, tacked around the base of trees 
troubled by the Root Borer have proved success- 
ful. 

Rem. 34. Coal Tar Direct— Mr. Chas. E. Thesher, 
of Shawnee Co., Kansas, recently wrote to the 
Prairie Farmer as follows: tfc I have lost one or- 
chard by the Round-headed Borers. In another j 
orchard I am having better luck, keeping them ' 



a most injurious pest to Cabbage in most 
places, and especially in small gardens. 




Fig. 10. 



Butterfly of the Cabbage Worm. 
Remedies 35 and 38. 



They come in two broods, the first Butter- 
flies being seen in May, the second in Au- 
gust, and the progeny of, the latter causes 
the most trouble. Either the same or else a 
very similar worm also devours the Mignon- 
ette and some other plants. 

Rem. 35. Pyrethrum. or Buhach— Liquid Form. 
A tablespoonf ul of the pure powder to two gal- 
lons of water, applying it by sprinkling with a 
watering pot, or better yet, by force with a 
pump. Here, as in all cases where we use liq- 
uids to destroy insects, especially if as in this 
case it kills by contact, we must apply with 
great force, so that the liquid will spatter every- 
where and so touch every insect. 



10 



OUR INSECT FOES; 



Rem. 36. Pyrethrum—Dry Form. One part of 
the dry powder mixed with forty parts of finely 
sifted wood ashes, dusting this over the Cab- 
bages. If the mixture is prepared a day or two 
before vising, keeping it in a perfectly tight ves- 
sel in the meantime, it will have even a better 
effect than when used freshly mixed. 

Rem. 37. Hot Water. Sprinkle the plants with 
hot water with the aid of a watering can and hose. 

Rem. 38. Quassia Water. An infusion of one 
pound of Quassia to one third barrel of water is 
recommended for killing the Caterpillars and 
preventing subsequent attacks. The same 
remedy has been used with success for plant lice 
and other insects. 

Canker Worm of the Apple, Elm, and Some 
Other Trees. (Anisopteryx vernata Peck.) 
— While this insect is not of frequent occur- 
ence outside of the New England States, it 
is of the utmost importance to fruit growers 
and others that it be not permitted to in- 
crease and extend until it shall become es- 
tablished. Its sluggish wingless female 
moths rise from the ground and creep slow- 
ly up the trunks of Apple, Elm, and less 
abundantly many other trees, chiefly in 
March, but also later, and somewhat in the 
fall, laying their eggs in clusters on the 
bark, these being secured by a grayish var- 
nish. The eggs usually hatch about the 
time the Red Currant is in blossom, and 
the Apple leaves begin to grow. The little 
worms attack the tender leaves near by, 
first piercing them with small holes, which 
later become larger and more irregular, 
and at last nearly all parts but the midrib 
and veins will be consumed. When young 
they are generally of a blackish or dusty 
brown color, with a yellowish stripe on 
each side. When fully grown, at which 
time they measure one inch or less in length, 
they usually assume an ash color on the 
back, and black on the sides, below which 
the pale yellowish line remains. They vary 
in color somewhat, however, being at times 
found of a dull greenish yellow, or of a clay 

color, and even green. 



Rem. 39. Banding. Banding the trees with 
strips of heavy paper or cloth, coated with tar or 
printer's ink, early in the spring, to prevent the 
ascent of the wingless females, is an old and ef- 
fective remedy. It has been found that the 
residuum of kerosene oil is one of the best reme- 
dies that can be used on bands, it being both 
cheaper and lasts longer (about six days) than 
ink or tar. The latter articles must be frequent- 
ly renewed. Traps made of tin and muslin to 
prevent the ascent of the worms are also in use. 

Rem. 40. Arsenical Poisons. The spraying rec- 
ommended in Remedy 15 for the Codling Moth on 
Apple trees answers at the same time to destroy 
the young Canker Worms. On Elm and other 
trees this same remedy may be applied for its 
destruction. 

Rem. 41. Birds. The Cedar bird devours large 
numbers of Canker worms; a hundred caterpillars 
have been found in the stomach of one of these. 
Next in usefulness according to Dr. Lintner, 
come the Indigo bird, the Chickadee, the black 
billed Cuckoo, Yellow Bird, the Summer Warb- 
ler, the rose-breasted Grosbeak, the Blue Bird, 
the King Bird and the Robin, in the order named. 

Rem. 42. Swine. By allowing swine to run in 
the orchards in the spring many will be destroyed. 
Carbolic Acid. See Remedies 22, 159. 
Caterpillars. The remarks which here fol- 
low will apply to most kinds of Caterpillars 
that infest fruit and shade trees, shrubs, 




Fig. 11. Caterpillar of White Tussock Moth, Rem. 43, 47. 

etc. But to the well-known Caterpillar of 
the white-marked Tussock Moth (Orgyia 
leucostigma), and which is shown feeding 
on a leaf in figure 11, special attention is 
here called. It is more commonly familiar 



HOW TO DEAL WITH. 



11 



in the cities than elsewhere, owing to its 
depredations, often severe on street and 
other shade trees, and calling for the com- 
mon but questionable remedy of cotton 
bands about the trunks. In color it pre- 
sents the rich and varying diversity of 
cream yellow, (sometimes changing to 
white), velvety black and brownish spots, 
stripes and brush-like hairs, with a coral 
red head. There are also two long plumes 
of black hair rising from the head and a 
similar one from the last dorsal joint. 

Rem. 43. Arsenical Poisons. Same as 15. "Lon- 
don purple, as already shown," says Professor Ri- 
ley, in a recent report, " is perhaps preferable to 
white arsenic or Paris green, in that it is not so 
liable to burn the leaves, while its color enables 
one to readily distinguish poisoned from non- 
poisoned trees. Moreover it is very cheap. 
From one-quarter to three-quarters of a pound 
of this substance and three quarts of cheap or 
damaged flour, to render the mixture adhesive 
and to lessen the tendency of the poison to burn 
the leaves, should be used to a barrel of water. 
The greater quantity of the poison may prove 
too strong for delicate young trees, and it will 
be best for general application to make the 
amount from three-eighths to one-half pound 
to the barrel. An apparatus for applying can 
be readily constructed, such as has been used on 
the grounds of the Department. It should con- 
sist of a water tank mounted on a cart and fur- 
nished with a strong force pump, operated by 
one man and furnished with two sets of rubber 
tubing, each supported by a bamboo extension 
pole (Figure 3), with a cyclone nozzle at tip. 
With such an apparatus as this three men could 
drive along the streets and thoroughly spray 
two trees simultaneously; while if it were found 
advisable, four independent tubes and four men 
to work them could be employed, with a suffic- 
iently powerful pump, and thus expedite the 
work. 

Rem. 44. Destruction of the Orgxjia Eggs. This, 
Prof. Lintner suggests, may be accomplished to 
a great extent with moderate labor. During 
June and later, and especially late in fall and 
during winter, the egg-masses may be seen as 
glistening, slightly woven white objects, becom- 



ing weather-worn after long exposure, and often 
occurring in patches of a dozen or more. They 
may be met on the trunks or larger branches of 
trees— a favorite location being where limbs are 
cut— in the corners of angles about fences, un- 
der window sills, etc. Children prove ready col- 
lectors for a small reward. Those out of arm's 
reach can be removed with a scraper prepared 
for the purpose. To show how effective may be 
this means of preventing the Caterpillar's ap- 
pearance, it may be said that over 700 eggs of 
these have been counted in a single egg-mass. 

Rem . 45 . Cotton Bands. The indiscriminate use 
of these, says our able State Entomologist, Prof. 
J. A. Lintner, in his last report, must be con- 
demned for the Orgyia. They may be of service, 
and they may be decidedly objectionable, from 
the fact that the attack, in almost every in- 
stance, proceeds from the eggs deposited the pre- 
ceding year upon the tree. If, therefore, Remedy 
43 could be applied with the certainty that no 
egg clusters are upon the tree, then a band ap- 
plied would prevent any wandering Caterpillars 
from ascending its trunk. But with the eggs or 
the young larvae being already upon the tree, 
the band will prove a positive evil, in prevent- 
ing migration to other feeding ground. The 
barriers, too, prevent the mature Caterpillars 
from descending to the rougher bark of the 
lower part of the trunk, in the crevices of which 
they prefer to build their cocoons, and would 
confine them to the tree, where it would be diffi- 
cult to discover the egg-clusters, and destroy 
them. 

Rem. 46. WarUpon the English Sparrows. Our 
troublesome English sparrows not only decline 
to eat this Caterpillar, but by force of numbers 
and their pugnacious dispositions they drive 
away the few birds that would feed upon them. 
Of such, according to Prof. Lintner, there are 
but the four named under Remedy 47. 

Rem. 47. Birds. Of these but four species that 
destroy this Caterpillar are known, namely: the 
Robin, the Baltimore Oriole, the black-billed 
Cuckoo, and the yellow-billed Cuckoo. 

Celery Fly. For preventing the ravages of 
this pest the following remedies may be of 
use: 

Rem. 48. Soluble Phenyle. By syringing the 



12 



OUR INSECT FOES; 



plants with a very dilute mixture of this drug, 
and water, the insect may be checked. 

Rem. 49. Gas Lime. This applied freshly in 
the autumn to the ground to be planted the next 
year, incorporating it a few inches deep, will kill 
the pupae of the fly. 

Celery Worm. Treat as directed for Cab- 
bage Worm or for Sphinges, which see. 

Cherry and Pear Tree Slug. The Cherry 
and Pear tree slug is two brooded. The 
black flies come in May, lay eggs on the 




Fig. 12. 



Cherry and Pear Tree Slugs at Work, 
Remedies 45, 47. 



leaves of the trees, and the larvas or slugs, 
which are brown and slimy, feed upon the 
cuticle of the leaves. A second brood comes 
in September. 

Rem. 50. Road Dust, Ashes, or Air-Slaked 
Lime.— I know (Professor Cook) by actual trial 
that road dust thrown on to these slugs will 
sometimes drive them all from the trees. I also 
know that at other times it will apparently do 
little or no good. Whether this arises from the 
varying character of the earth or a different 
condition of the insect, I do not know. 

Rem. 5 1 . Pyrethrum or Bubach—Same as Rem- 
edy 36. We have used, always with perfect sat- 
isfaction, using a Woodason dust bellows. 

Rem. 52. Liquid Hellebore. One pound of Hel- 
lebore powder to twenty-five or thirty gallons of 
water, finely sprayed over the affected trees or 
bushes, is one of the best and most easily ap- 
plied remedies. The Hellebore kills not only by 
contact but also by being eaten. Hence Profes- 
sor Lintner finds that the addition of a small 



quantity of flour to the water gives it greater 
adhesiveness and worth, over a longer period. 
Rem. 53. Kerosene Emulsion. Same as 6. 
Cherry Worm. See Curculio. 
Chrysanthemum Lice. See Aphis, or Plant 
Lice. 
Coccus. See Bark Lice, or Coccus. 
Coal Tar. See Remedies 7, 32, 137. 
Codling Moth. See Apple Worm. 
Corn or Boll Worm, (HeUothis armigera). 
This pest, so destrutive to the Cotton 
and Corn-fields of the Southern States, 
has in recent years made its appearance 
as an injurious insect in the North. Fig- 
ure 14 represents the worm at about its 
ordinary size. It not only attacks grow- 
ing Corn, devouring the soft kernels in 
patches, but also bores into the fruit and 
stems of the Tomato; it eats into the 
pods of Peas and Beans, and burrows 
into Squashes, Peppers, Pumpkins, as 
well as into the stem of Gladiolus, etc. 

Rem. 54. Hand-pick- 
ing. Experience in the 
South has shown that 
if the first brood of the 
Caterpillars are col- 
lected and destroyed 
their ravages may be 
controlled. Their pres- 
ence can be discovered 
either when at work on 
the surface, or else, as 
in the case of Corn, by 
the holes eaten into the 
husks. 

Rem. 55. Attracting by Odors and Drowning. 
Where the insect occurs abundantly it is very 
successfully dealt with by attracting the moth 
to a mixture of molasses and vinegar. The 
odor, it is said, will draw them quite a distance, 
and in their attempts to feed they readily be- 
come caught and drown. 

Copperas or Blue Vitriol Water. (56). A 
solution of Blue Vitriol (Sulphate of Cop- 
per) in the proportion of one ounce to a pail 




Fig. 14. The Corn or 
Boll Worm. 



HOW TO DEAL WITH. 



13 



of water, will serve to kill many kinds of 
grubs, maggots, etc., in the soil, and of 
small caterpillars on plants. 

Cucumber Beetle. (Diabrotica vittata.) 
This is a well-known small striped beetle 
that troubles Cucumbers, Squashes, and 
Melons, making its appearance as soon as 
the leaves begin to expand, and a number 
of broods are produced during the course of 
the season. It is to the young plants that 
the insect is most injurious, and the great 
secret in dealing. with it is to begin the 
treatment positively in advance of the in- 
sect's appearance. 

Rem. 57. Plaster or Ashes, etc., and Kerosene. 
To two quarts of plaster, wood ashes, or flour of 
bone, add one tablespoonf ul of kerosene, rub- 
bing the mixture between the hands until the 
oil is well distributed. Sift or hand sprinkle 
this over the plants as soon as the first leaves ap- 
pear, repeating it a few times until all are 
through the ground, and also later if this be re- 
quired. 

Bern. 58. Arsenical Poisons (which see.) Apply- 
ing a little when the vines are dry. 

Curculio, or Weevil, of the Plum, Apricot, 
Cherry, etc. (Conotrachelus). This is the 
greatest enemy of the Plum and some other 
stone fruits, while also affecting the Apple 
and other kinds. Within a 
few years especially serious 
damage has been done to 
Apples. Its attacks are fol- 
lowed by great deformity 
in the fruit. The Apples 
are often stung many times 
and become so gnarled, dis- 
torted, and scarred as to be 
wholly worthless. From ob- 
servations made the past 
season, I believe the Apples 
will suffer attack very rarely 
if Plum trees are scattered liberally among 
the Apple trees. In this case the Weevils 
will attack their favorite, the Plum, and so 




Fig. 14. Curculio 
Beetle stinging 
a Plum previ- 
ous to laying 
its eggs. 



the Apples will go free. If this prove in- 
variably true, as it has in several cases which 
have come under my observation the past 
season, then it will pay doubly well to plant 
the Plum trees. The Plums will protect 
the Apples, and by jarring, the Plums may 
be saved and the fruit grower will secure 
good crops of both fruits. Dr. Harris says 
that the Cherry Worm, which is very com- 
mon in this fruit, is identical with the Plum 
Curculio, but unlike the effects of the insect 
on the Plum, it does not cause the Cherry 
to drop prematurely to the ground. 

Rem. 59. Jarring Process. This is a simple 
and adequate remedy within the means of every- 







Fig. 15. Popular Gardening's Non-Patented Curculio 
Catcher. 

one's employing. It consists of spreading cloth 
sheets, or frames of some form covered with 
cloth, under the tree, jarring the tree sharply by 
striking on an inserted spike or on the stump of 
a lower limb removed for the purpose. An ex- 
cellent device of our own for this purpose is il- 
lustrated in Fig. 15. The cloth at the near end of 
the frame is attached to a single light strip of 
board, while at the center of the entire area it is 
divided into two parts, the further end of each 
being attached to a short cross piece, which in 
turn is supported by one arm of a light frame, 
as shown in the figure. The two further cross 
pieces are one foot apart at B to admit of bringing 



14 



OUR INSECT FOES; 



the frame under the tree, with its center and main 
cross arm resting' against the trunk during the 
jarring. A flap of cloth, A, extends from one of 
the projecting parts to the other, to be raised 
and again let down in adjusting the frame. Con- 
cerning the jarring operation, this should be be- 
gun as soon as the insect commences its work, 
which is soon after the fruit is set. The work of 
the insect may easily be detected by the small 
cresent-shaped mark that is left on the fruit. 
The jarring process need not necessarily be per- 
formed early in the morning while the dew is on, 
or late in the afternoon. The insect will not so 
readily let go its hold, as when it is actually at 
work, and this is not until the dew has dried off 
and the atmosphere has become warm. The num- 
ber of times that an orchard should be gone over 
depends upon the varieties. Those that become 
hard and downy soon, like Richmond, Lombard, 
Reine Claude, etc., require much less jarring 
than large, smooth kinds like Pond Seedling, 
Yellow Egg, Coe's Golden Drop, etc. It should 
be repeated daily for one week, and then at in- 
tervals of a day or so between, so long as the in- 
sect remains at work. 

Rem. 60. Poisoning by using the arsenical pois- 
on of number 15, spraying the trees, Weir says: 
First, just before the blossom buds open; second, 
two weeks after the petals fall. If a weak, soapy 
kerosene emulsion is used at this spraying to 
mix the poisons in, it will also destroy the leaf 
lice, aphides, bugs and all other insects injurious 
to the fruit and foliage ; and ttten a third spray- 
ing about June 10th, and your fruit is safe. 

Rem. 61. Planting Wild Plums. These Plums 
planted en masse in sufficient quantity on a 
place will gather unto themselves all the Plum 
Curculios on the place and so protect all other 
fruits from its ravages. And being on them the 
female naturally lays her eggs in the fruit, few 
of which ever hatch, and so few reach maturity 
in this fruit. The extensive planting of the 
same on a place will alone well nigh extermin- 
ate the pest.— Wier. 

Currant Borer. This little Caterpillar, for 
it is really the larva of a beautiful little 
blue moth, is becoming more and more 
common. The moth lays the eggs on the 
canes of the Currant in June, and the larva 



as soon as the egg hatches enters the stalk, 
and not only hollows it out, but kills it out- 
right. I (Professor Cook) know a certain 
region in Michigan where these little pests 
have ruined every Currant plantation ex- 
cept a tew that have been carefully looked 
after. 

Rem. 62. Removing Affected Parts. Cut all 
such off late in the fall or early in the spring and 
burn them. As the borers are now in the stems 
they are also burned. The diseased canes can 
easily be told by their dead or dying tips. Such 
treatment is the price of the Currant bushes 
wherever they are attacked by these insects. 

Currant and Gooseberry Slug or Worm. (Ne- 
matus ventricosus.) This voracious in- 
sect differs from the Cherry slug. The flies 
are yellow, not black. The slugs are green, 
or green dotted with black, and not brown. 
They feed on the Gooseberry or Currant, 
and eat the leaf entire, instead of merely 
removing the cuticle. It is so readily dealt 
with by the timely application of remedies 
that there can be no possible excuse for the 
shocking damage often seen done to these 
useful fruits about town and country 
homes. 

Rem. 63. Powdered Hellebore. Hellebore 
the best of known remedies and a perfectly ef- 
fectual one. Properly applied no harm can pos- 
sibly result from it. It should, according to 
Prof. Lintner, be used in the following manner. 
Early in the spring, as soon as the leaves of the 
Currant have fully put forth, watch for the first 
indications of the hatching and commencement 
of the young larvae. You have only to look for 
these on the lowest leaves of the bushes near the 
ground. The indications will be numerous 
small holes eaten into the leaves. Sprinkle pow- 
dered Helleboi*e over these leaves, renewing it 
if washed away by rain, and the desired end is 
accomplished. If the Hellebore remains upon 
1 the leaves during the time that larvae are hatch- 
ing all will be killed, and none will remain for 
subsequent spreading over the leaves and for 
the need of future attention. If the first brood 
of worms is thus destroyed there will be few if 
any to form a second brood in June. 



BOW TO DEAL WITH. 



15 



Bern. 64. Hand Pinching. Some find it con- 
venient to watch for the first eaten leaves, and 
to pinch them off by hand and destroy them. 
The eggs are always to be found conspicuously 
arranged in rows upon the veins of the under 
side of the leaves. 

Bern. 65. Nicotyl. Laying some refuse to- 
bacco stems from the cigarmaker's in the center 
of each bush about May 1st, or mulching the 
bushes with tobacco stems, or these mixed with 
strawy manure, afford a complete remedy. 

Bern. 66. Busting with Soot. This has recent- 
ly-been recommended as being equally as de- 
structive to this worm as is Hellebore. 

Cut- Worms. (Agrotis, etc.) Of these de- 
structive worms, which have the habit of 
leaving their places of concealment in the 
soil at night, coming to the surface and cut- 
ting off almost every kind of newly set 
vegetable and 
flowering plants, 
there are now 
known to be many 
species. Those of 
the genus Agrotis, 
being mostly 
thick, greasy-look- 
ing Caterpillars of 
some shade of 
gray, brown or 
green, variously 
marked, are the 
best known and 
well to be looked 
upon with dread. 

Bern. 67. Poisoning. Put a teaspoonful of 
Paris green or London purple in two gallons of 
water, and sprinkle handf uls of grass, or green 
sods, which can then be scattered throughout the 
patch, walking crossways of the harrow marks. 
By doing this towards evening after the last 
harrowing, during the night the cut worms that 
are deprived of their food will be out looking for 
fresh pastures and will appropriate of the pre- 
pared bait, the smallest particle of the poison of 
which will kill. If the worms are very trouble- 
some, the remedy can be repeated, it being easily 
applied. 




Fig. 16. Cut Worms turned 
away. Remedy 68. 



Bern. 68. Shielding the Stem. By encircling 
each plant that is set with a bit of tar paper, or 
even other paper, as shown in Figure 16, the rav- 
ages of the worm may be prevented. The paper 
should extend upwards several inches from a 
point just beneath the surface of the soil. 

Bern. 69. Fall Plowing and Digging. 

Bern. 70. Hunting and Killing. By closely ex- 
amining the surface of the soil in the morning, 
in the vicinity of their spoils, their place of 
retreat may usually be discovered, and the 
worms be killed. 

Earth or Angle Worm. This common red 
worm, found in all soils, is harmless so far 
as eating the plants is concerned, but does 
damage by feeding on the nutriment of the 
soil and otherwise doing it injury. 

Bern. 71. lAme Water easily kills this worm, 
the caustic of the lime acting fatally on its 
cuticle. One peck of lime to a barrel of water 
will make the needed solution, allowing this to 
settle and watering the plants once thoroughly 
with the clear water. 

Elm-leaf Beetle. The worm and larvae of 
this pest has now become widely extended, 
doing great injury to the Elm trees of our 
cities. It is shown at work in the accom- 
panying engraving, and its presence is soon 
apparent by the blighted appearance of the 
trees. 

Bern. 72. Arsenical Poisons. Same as 43, which 
should be applied for the first early in June, and 
again a few weeks later, if it seems necessary. 

Fir Tree Oil. See Remedy 24, 149. 

Fish Brine. See Remedy 26. 

Flea Beetles. (Haltica.) As soon as the 
Cabbage, Radish, Turnip, Ten Week Stocks, 
and some other plants show their first leaves 
in the spring they are liable to be visited by 
the Black or Striped Flea Beetle. These 
minute beetles soon do great injury to the 
young plants if not checked. They are so 
shy in their habits that it is quite difficult to 
get a view of them, but their presence may 
always be known by the spotted appearance 



16 



OUR INSECT FOES; 



of the leaves. The Grape-vine Flea Beetle is 
a near relative, varying in color from steel 
blue to metallic green and purple. 




Fig. 17. Imported Elm Beetle. A, eggs; b, larvae feed- 
ing; c, adult; d, beetle enlarged; e, eggs enlarged. 

Rem. 73. Poisoning. The surest way to destroy 
them is by using Paris green or London purple 
mixed with land plaster, flour, dry leached 
ashes, etc., one part of the poison to fifty of the 
plaster. If the plants can be dusted in the morn- 
ing so much the better, but I generally do it 
when I first see the insects at work, which is in 
the heat of the day. One application usually 
suffices.— B. J. Coryell. 

Rem. 74. Dusting with Lime, Ashes, etc. This 
common, simple remedy, if not so positive as the 
last, yet proves very effective if persistently ap- 
plied. 

Rem. 69. Domesticating Toads. The large com- 
mon toad is a most successful nocturnal collector 



of beetles and other forms of insects, and its 
presence in the garden and greenhouse should be 
constantly encouraged. The stomach of one 
examined was found to be nearly full of flea- 
beetles of a species abounding on Cabbages and 
Turnips in a garden. The toad is not partial to 
any one kind of insect, however, but devours all 
kinds with avidity and in immense numbers. 
Fir Saw-fly. See Saw-flies. 
Flour. See use of in Remedies 43, 73, 108. 
Fowls. (76.) Under Remedies 19, 79, etc., 
some reference is made to these, to which 
may be added that Turkeys, Ducks and Geese 
are devours of great quantities of insects. We 
have known of a garden being kept entirely 
clean of these by permitting a small flock of 
Ducks to make it their home. They do not 
scratch like chickens. Muscovy Ducks are 
objectionable, for they consume buds also. 
Young Turkeys are voracious consumers of 
insects. 

Gall Flies and their Grubs. Excrescences 
of various kinds known as Galls and pro- 
duced by the deposit of eggs of insects in the 
bark or leaves of plants may often be seen. 
What is commonly known as the Oak Apple 
is caused by a Gall Fly. When cut longi- 
tudinally the Gall is seen to inclose a great 
number of granules, each containing a 
minute larva. The Rose Gall, frequently 
seen as rather a handsome globular excres- 
cence on the branches of Wild Rose bushes, 
is the work of another Gall Fly. The Elm, 
Beech, and other trees, besides many other 
forms of growth, frequently show Galls of 
some kinds, either on the twigs, leaves, or 
roots. 

Rem. 77. Removal and Burning. The only 
remedy is to cut off the excrescences as soon as 
they are observed, and putting them into the fire. 
Gas Lime. See Remedy 49. 
Gooseberry Slug. See Currant Slug. 
Grape Berry Moth Larva. This worm at- 
tacks the young berries about July 1, show- 
ing its presence by a discoloration at the 



HOW TO DEAL WITH. 



17 



point of entrance. It generally eats out the 
interior of the berry, and if the fruit is dis- 
turbed the worm wriggles out and lets itself 
to the ground by means of its silken thread. 

Rem. 78. Bagging the Clusters. The course is a 
most simple one. Common light manilla bags, 
the size known as two pound bags, are usually 
employed. These are slipped on over each clus- 
ter of the fruit and secured somewhat loosely by 
pins or a loop of wire or thread. If the stem of the 
cluster is brought against one end of the opening 
a single pin to a bag will answer, if in the middle, 
to have the paper bear evenly on all sides, then 
several pins or stitches are needed. A small slit 
should also be made in the bottom of each bag, 
to allow escape for any water that may enter 
into it along the stem. From 500 to 1000 bags can 
be put on in a day by one person, and costing 
from % to 1 cent per pound of fruit. Bagging 
also serves as a prevention of mildew and rot, 
and protection from birds, fowls, etc. The time 
to bag the fruit is as soon as it is well set. 

Grape Leaf Hopper. (Erythroyieura vitis.) 
This active little insect, often erroneously 
called Thrips, is one of the most trouble- 
some known to the Grape grower. It is 
hardly above an eighth of an inch long ; it 
jumps with great vigor, and dodges around 
quickly with a sidewise motion when ap- 
proached. It congregates in great numbers 
on the underside of the leaves, where it sucks 
up the sap, causing numerous brown spots 
and often killing the leaves. Of this insect 
there are several species, differing only in 
color. 

Rem. 79. Torch Remedy. Pass between the 
rows with a strong torch at night, one person to 
carry the torch and one on each side to slightly 
shake the trellise for starting them towards the 
flame. They fly readily to the light and being 
small are at once destroyed. 

Rem. 80. Kerosene Emulsion. Same as 6. 

Rem. SI. Cleanliness. As they pass the winter 
under leaves, loose bark of the stakes, etc. 
Cleanliness in removing and burning the leaves 
in the fall, as well as cleaning away all lodging 
places, is of the first importance. 



Grape-vine Flea-beetles. See Flea-beetles. 

Grape Curculio (Cceliocles incequalis.) The 
larva of this curculio infests the Grape in 
June and July, causing a little black hole in 
the skin and a discoloration of the berry 
immediately around it. This Curculio is 
small and inconspicuous, being of a black 
color, with a grayish tint. It is very bad 
some years and in others scarcely noticeable. 

Rem. 82. Jarring and Removing Berries. All 
infested berries should, from time to time, as 
they are noticed, be collected and destroyed, and 
the beetle may be jarred down on sheets, as with 
the Plum Curculio. 

Rem. 83. Bagging the Clusters. Same as Rem- 
edy 78. 

Grasshoppers. A remedy that gives prom- 
ise of being a most excellent one for this 
well-known pest comes from the Pacific 
Coast, having first been published in the 
Pacific Rural Press as follows: 

Rem. 84. Mash of Bran and other Ingredients. 
The mash consists of four parts of bran, one part 
of sugar and one and one-half parts of arsenic, 
to which is added a sufficient quantity of water 
to make a wet mash. Mix the arsenic thoroughly 
with the bran; put the sugar in the water and 
stir until the sugar is dissolved. Then pour this 
sugar- water into the bran and arsenic and stir 
thoroughly. A common washtubf ul of this mash 
is sufficient for about five acres of Grape-vines. 
Throw about a teaspoonf ul of the mixture be- 
neath each vine infested, and in a short time the 
Grasshoppers will leave the vine and commence 
feeding on the bran, and in a few hours will be 
found to be dead. The mixture costs from thirty- 
five to forty cents per acre of vineyard. Mid- 
dlings or shorts have been used in the place of 
bran, but are not so desirable. 

Grape-vine Fidia. (Fidia viticida.) This 
beetle, often confused with the Rose bug 
(See Fig. 25), which it somewhat resembles, 
being rather shorter and broader, is in 
many places very injurious. It comes around 
during June and July, inflicting damage 
by riddling the leaves, sometimes if very 
numerous so that they are but mere shreds. 



18 



OUR INSECT FOES; 



Rem. 85. Jarring. Same as No. 59. The least 
jar is sufficient to cause the insects to fall. 

Rem. 86, Fowls. By starting- a flock of fowls 
in the vineyard, having- one boy go ahead to 
shake the infested vines, and another behind the 
fowls, vineyards have been completely cleaned 
of the pest. 

Grape-vine Worms. See Sphinges. 
Green Fly or Lice. See Aphis. 
Grubs, White. See May-bugs. 
Hellebore. See Remedies 52, 63, 127. 
Honeysuckle Sawfly. See Sawflies. 

Hot Water Remedy. See Remedies 5, 12, 37, 
154. 

Household Insects. See Pyrethrum; also 
Remedies 2 to 4. It may be added that as a 
remedy to be applied on living creatures a 
mixture of crude petroleum and lard will 
kill all insects. 

Insect Powder. See Pyrethrum. 

Jarring. See Remedy 59, 75. 

Kerosene. See Remedies 6, 57. 

Lady Bug. See Remedy 13 and Fig. IS. 

Leaf Crumplers. (Phycis indigenella.) A 
conspicuous pest of various fruit trees and 
widely distributed. Its presence is at once 
known by its work of bringing a considera- 
ble mass of leaves together, (which soon turn 
brown), and attaching them to each other 
and to the twigs by means of silken threads. 
The brown, wrinkled worm is within. The 
next season young worms appear from the 
mass and feed on the new crop of leaves. 

Rem. 87. Gathering the masses and burniug 
them. 

Leaf Skeletonizers. Under this head might 
be brought a number of insects, including 
Slugs, that feed on the parenchyma of the 
upper surface of the leaves. They may be 
destroyed by remedies 6 and 43, according to 
their habits. 



Leaf Rollers. There are many Caterpillars 
that curl or fold up the edges of the leaves 
of plants, securing both habitations and 
food to the insects. In the case of the Grape- 
vine Leaf Roller, Verbena Leaf Roller and 
others, the worm is of a grass-green color, 




Fig. 13. Lady Bug and Larva. 

very active, wriggling, jumping and jerk- 
ing either way at every touch. 

Rem. 88. Crushing. The most simple method 
to destroy the worms is by crushing them sud- 
denly within the leaf with the hand. 

Rem. 89. Fall Burning of Dead Leaves. As 
the last brood hybernates in the chrysalis state 
within fallen leaves, much may be done, especi- 
ally in the case of the Grape and other fruits 
towards checking the ravages of this worm by 
raking up and burning the leaves in the fall. 

Lime, Ashes, Lime Water, etc. See Remedies 
17, 50, 71, 74, 131. 



HOW TO DEAL WITH. 



19 



London Purple. (90.) This insecticide, which 
has assumed so much importance to plant 
cultivators, is a refuse material obtained in 
the manufacture of analine dyes, heretofore 
worthless. It appears to be mainly an ar- 
senite of lime. Its efficacy in the destruction 
of insects seems to be about equal to that of 
Paris green, although it does not act upon 
insect life quite so rapidly. Its cost is also 
less. See Remedy 108; also, 15, 43, 67. 

Lye Solution. See Remedy 116. 

Maple Borer. See Sugar Maple Borer. 

Maple-tree Scale. See Bark Lice. 

Maggots of the Cabbage, Onion and Radish 
Flies. (Atithomyia.) These terrible and 
widespread destroyers are very hard to 
combat, and so are among our worst insect 
pests. The little flies, which look like small 
house flies, lay their 
white eggs at the base 
of the plants. The little 
conical maggots groove 
and deface the Radishes 
and utterly destroy the 
Onions and Cabbages by 
tunneling to under- 
ground stems, causing 
club-root. While the 
kerosene and soap mix- 
ture and bisulphide of 
carbon will surely kill 
if they reach the insects, 
they are not satisfactory 
in real practice. Owing *%$ EZfS^otat 
to difference in soil, work. 
and the speed with which the Maggot enters 
the plants, such remedies are not practi- 
cal. I have found as yet no satisfactory 
insecticide to destroy these insects. — Pro- 
fessor Oook. 

Rem. 91. Covering the Beds. For the Radish 
Maggot I know of no sure way except to keep 
the beds of early Radishes entirely covered with 
thin cloth.— Professor Cook. 




Rem. 92. Change of Location. For Onions 
and Cabbage a frequent change in the location 
of the beds serves the best. We have found now 
for two years that a removal of our beds one-half 
mile with an intervening orchard has saved our 
Cabbages. If the same insect attacks both Onion 
and Cabbage, as I believe is true, then we must 
move the location of both vegetables at the same 
time.— Professor Cook. 

Rem. 93. Destroying Affected Onions. In case 
of an attack all affected plants should at once be 
taken up by means of a broad-bladed knife to 
lift the larvae, and then promptly burning and 
otherwise purifying the soil and other matter 
lifted. 

Rem. 94. Preventing Club-root. Experiments 
of the Eastern growers show that a liberal dress- 
ing of lime and gas-lime to the soil, and harrowed 
in, acts .as a preventive to Club-root and also kills 
the Maggot.— Coryell. 

May-bugs or May-beetles and their Larva. 
(Lachno sterna.) Of this well-known pest, 
both the beetles in their winged state and 
its larva, the White 
Grub, are often to a 
very injurious degree 
destructive to vegeta- 
tion; the former injur- 
ing the leaves and 
growth above ground, 
the latter the root, 
indeed, in some seasons 
May-bugs have been so 
numerous as to devour the leaves of fruit 
and forest trees and shrubs with an avidity 
not much less than the Locust. They are 
partial to the leaves of the Cherry. 

Rem. 95. Jarring for May-hugs. Same as .54. 

Rem. 96. Crows. These destroy many of the 
perfect insects, as well as the Grubs. 

Rem. 97. Artificial Breeding Places. Some 
such made by covering piles of fresh cow-dung 
with fine earth about the month of May will 
attract the Beetles, as depositing places for their 
eggs. As these hatch before winter, by then 
turning over the heaps and spreading them out 
so the material will lay loosely and not more than 




Fig. 21. White Grub of 
the May Beetle. 



20 



OUR INSECT FOES; 



six inches deep, doing 1 this as tbe earth is about 
to freeze up, all will be killed by freezing-. 

Rem. 98. Deep plowing of infested lands in the 
fall. 

Rem. 99. Swine will root up and destroy the 
grubs if turned upon infested land. 

Melon Vine Borer. See Squash Vine Borer. 

Mignonette Worm. See Cabbage Worm. 

Molasses and Poison. See Remedy 4. 

Mustard Water. See Remedy 160. 

Nicotyl. See Remedies 10, 65 and Fig. 21. 

Onion Fly and Mag- 
got. See Maggots. 

Paraffine Oil. See 
Remedies 11, 155. 

Paris Green. See 
Remedies 15, 43, 67. 

Petroleum Crude. 
See Household In- 
sects. 

Pine Tree Sawfly. 
See Sawflies. 

Pea Bug or Weevil. 
This is the well- 
known bug found 
in Peas, and which, 
by the time it is of 
full growth has 
consumed a large 
portion of the grain, 
to the great impair- 
ment of its value both for food and seed. 

Rem. 100. Soluble Phenyle. Miss Omei-od, the 
accomplished English entomologist, reports that 
by sowing the Peas along with coal ashes (sand 
should do as well) saturated with a tablespoonf ul 
of phenyle to a gallon of water, the ashes left 
covered several days before use to become 
thoroughly charged with the smell, the attack of 
weevil was prevented on the new crop. 

Rem. 101. Turpentine. Peas that have been 
stung may be rendered bugless by placing them 
as soon as gathered in jars or other tight vessels 
adding as much as a teaspoonf ul of turpentine 




A Nicotyl Vapor 



to each jar. This will kill tho immature bugs 
very soon. 

Rem. 102. Bisulphide of Carbon. For treating 
Peas on a large scale it is usual to submit them 
to the heavy fumes of bisulphide of carbon, an 
abominable smelling but destructive drug. 

Peach Tree Borer. This is a most destruc- 
tive insect when allowed to increase for a 
few years without molestation, and their 
multiplication should be prevented by all 
possible means. The eggs are deposited in 
summer on the base of the trunk, near the 
collar, where the bark is soft. There they 
are hatched and bore their way under the 
bark of the tree, either in the stem or roots, 
or both, producing an effusion of gum. 

Rem. 103. Probing the Borer.— Ashes and Lime. 
Bank up the soil around the stem firmly eight to 
twelve inches directly after blooming, taking 
it away in the middle of the following August' 
and trace the grub through its holes in the tree 
and kill it; then place a shovelful or two of 
wood ashes around the base. Wood ashes or 
slaked lime may be applied every spring and at 
the end of summer may be scattered about the 
tree, both of these articles forming an excellent 
dressing for the Peach. See 31, 143. 

Pear Slug. See Cherry and Pear Slugs. 

Phenyle, Soluble. See Remedies 5, 100. 

Pine Bark Chermes. The appearance of 
this insect on Pine trees of several kinds is 
known by little patches of a white wool- 
like substance adhering to the bark. The 
insect is found beneath this substance which 
serves as a covering. 

Rem. 104. Crushing with a Brush and Cloth. 
By using a stiff brush on the branches and a strip 
of cloth to draw repeatedly backward and for- 
ward through the axils of the branches, the in- 
sects can easily be killed. 

Rem. 105. Whale Oil Soap. A solution formed 
with a quarter of a pound of soap to a gallon of 
water and applied with a force pump would 
destroy the insect. 

Plant Lice. See Aphis. 

Plaster and Plaster of Paris. See Remedies 
50, 73, 108. 



HOW TO DEAL WITH. 



21 



Potato Beetle. This insect is now too well 
known to require any description. 

Rem. 106. Early Poisoning. To poison the 
adults when first they appear and before the 
Potatoes are up is an effectual way of preventing 
a large share of later trouble. By simply slicing 
Potatoes thinly and dipping the pieces iuto Paris 
green water, and then scattering these about the 
field, the task is done. 

Rem. 107. Arsenical Poison No. 15, 43. Apply- 
ing for a few plants with a whisk, or for more 
with a fine watering pot or force pump, taking 
oare not to deluge the plants, but only to cover 
with a light spray. 

Rem. 108. Arsenical Poison, Dry Forms. This 
may be prepared either from Paris green or 
London purple, both of which appear to be of 
about equal efficiency. The latter is the cheapest 
and it has the advantage of being more readily 
seen on the plants, but it does not accomplish its 
work so rapidly, for often its effects are not ap- 
parent until the second or third day after its 
application. Used in a dry form the best results 
have been obtained when cheap flour has been 
used to dilute it, although road dust, land plaster, 
plaster of Paris, etc., are employed for this pur- 
pose also. The advantage in using flour is that 
the compound seems to adhere better to the 
leaves of plants and to be more readily eaten 
than are the mineral and other substances. Po- 
tato leaves will safely bear the poison as slightly 
diluted as ten or twelve pounds of flour to one 
pound of Paris green or London purple. Some 
other vegetation will show injury to the leaves, 
unless twenty pounds of flour be used with one 
pound of Paris green, while of this poison even 
thirty pounds of flour to one of the pure drug 
will destroy a large proportion of insect pests. 
In actual use London purple seems less liable to 
injure the leaves of many plants than Paris green. 
When the purple is prepared of the strength of 
one pound of poison to ten of flour it will injure 
only delicate vegetation. The latter reduced 
with even seventy pounds of flour will be found 
to kill nearly all leaf -eating larvae. For general 
use the preparation of London purple recom- 
mended and which has given the best practical 
results, is one pound of the purple to forty of 
flour. In using land plaster and plaster of Paris, 
instead of flour about 150 pounds of the former 



should be used to each pound of poison. Dry 
road dust at the rate of one and one-half bushels 
to one pound of poison, and of ashes two bushels 
to the pound, have been found to be in about the 
right proportion for effectually destroying the 
Potato bug and its larva. In all cases the mater- 
ials must be thoroughly mixed and should be 
applied in early morning while the leaves are 
wet with dew, that it may adhere the better. A 
simple mode is to tie a muslin bag containing 
the powder to the end of a stick and shaking it 
over the plants. A rather better method is 
that of a tin dusting box having a cover and 
a finely perforated bottom, or one consisting 
of light wire gauze or thin muslin turned up 
over the end and bound on, and the box attached 
to a handle about three feet long. By then walk- 
ing along with the box turned over the plants 
and supported with one hand, tapping it with a 
small stick in the other hand, the powder can be 
uniformly distributed. In case the growth of 
vines nearly cover the ground the plaster or 
ashes mixture can be sown broadcast over five 
or so rows at once with economy of labor. Care 
should in all cases be taken to keep to the wind 
ward of the plants to be dusted, in order that 
the poison may not be breathed. 

Rem. 109. Prepared remedies, such as Slug 
Shot. 

Potato Worm. See Sphinges and their 
larva. 

Probing. See Remedies 31, 134, 143. 

Promoting Growth as a Remedy. See Rem. 
14. 

Pumpkin Vine Borer. See Squash Vine 
Borer. 

Pyrethrum or Dalmation Insect Powder, " Bu- 
hach." (110.) This remarkable vegetable in- 
secticide consisting of the finely pulverized 
flowers of Pyrethrum cineraricefolium, 
(Another form is known as Persian Insect 
Powder, from Pyrethrum roseum and P. 
carneum), has the peculiar property of not 
being injurious to human beings, but 
stangely enough kills most kinds of insects 
or spore-breathing creatures. On such the 
powder appears to have the effect of produc- 



22 



OUR INSECT FOES; 




ing a paralysis, from which they rarely re- 
cover, although life may linger for several 
days. The powder is now produced on a 
large scale in Califor- 
nia. Pains should be 
taken to use the article 
fresh and pure, and to 
keep it in air-tight bot- 
tles or boxes, for its 
active principle is vola- 
tile and it loses its 
strength unless care is 
taken to keep it in air- 
tight receptacles. This 
powder is the insect 
powder of the stores, 

but in that form it is Fig. 22. The Red Spider 
apt to be weak f rom greatly magnified. 

adulteration, or age and exposure. This has 
become almost the universal, as it is a most 
safe and effective remedy against all house- 
hold insect pests as flies, mosquitos, roaches, 
bed-bugs, etc., all of which it 
kills, if applied to them in a 
closed room, by means of a 
small bellows box or other- 
wise. See Remedies 25, 36, 51. 
Quadruped Foes to Insects. 
111. Remedies 42 and 91 refer 
to the usefulness of Swine as 
devourers of insects. To the 
Swine may be added the 
Skunk and the Raccoon, 
neither of which, however, 
is to be recommended with- 
out a qualifying clause. The 
Skunk, while feeding almost 
wholly on insects, is disposed 
to attack the chicken roosts 
and nests, 

these and he is a harmless 
and most helpful agent in 
the insect war. Raccoons devour great num- 
bers of grubs and other worms in the spring, 
but they have a great fondness for the 



Green Corn crop also later in the season. 

Quassia Water. See Remedy 38. 

Quince Curculio. See Curculio of the 
Plum, etc. 

Radish Fly and Maggot. See Maggots. 

Raspberry Saw-fly. See Saw-flies. 

Raspberry Slugs and Worms. See Slugs. 

Red Spider. (Acarus tellarius.) This well 
known minute insect pest is one that is 
peculiar to dry and warm conditions of the 
atmosphere. It is not only troublesome on 
window and greenhouse plants, but often 
in dry weather greatly so to garden plants 
and trees. The insects, generally in large 
numbers, attack plants when they are in a 
weakened state, from want of sufficient 
water or other causes, spinning webs over 
the under side of the leaves, and sucking 
out the sap. They are not spiders at all, as 
may be seen by the greatly magnified repre- 




Fig. 23. Plant inclined for Syringing the 
shut him out from underside of the leaves. 



Fig. 24. Cloth Shield having 
draw string in edge; to be 
placed over pot. 

REMEDY 110. 



TREATING POT PLANTS FOR RED SPIDER 

sentation of one in Figure 22, but belong to 
the family of mites. 
Bern. 112. Water and Moisture. These pro- 



HOW TO DEAL WITH. 



23 



vided with persistence are complete specifics. 
As the insects exist on the underside of the 
leaves, the best way to destroy them is by re- 
peated forcible syringing. In the case of pot 
plants there is some danger of getting too much 
water to the soil and roots, hence the methods of 
preventing this suggested by Figures 23 and 24 are 
useful. With garden plants there is little danger 
of excessive moisture at the root from syringing. 

.Rem. 113. Su 7 phur. Where plants are confined, 
as in a greenhouse, the fumes of sulphur are also 
employed as a remedy. This, however, must be 
applied with caution, as excessive fumes will 
also kill the plants. A safe course is to put 
flowers of sulphur on tin or iron plates and set 
in the sun near or under the plants. Applying a 
wash of sulphur mixed with guano or lime and 
water to the hot- water pipes is another common 
mode of applying sulphur. 

Road Dust. See Remedies 50, 108, 57, 131. 

Root Aphis or Lice. These are species of 
Aphides which, instead of feeding on the 
leaves and shoots of plants, attack the roots, 
hence are not to be directly treated by the 
remedies for Aphis or Plant Lice, which see. 
Undoubtedly the most important insect of 
this class is the Phylloxera or Grape-root 
Louse, which has in recent years spread 
with such wonderful rapidity throughout 
the vineyards of Europe. In France a prize 
of $60,000 has been offered in vain by the 
government for an effectual means for de- 
stroying it. It was first detected in this 
country about 1855, but happily is not seri- 
ously injurious to native American Grapes. 
The varieties of Root Lice we are more in- 
terested in are those which attack the Apple, 
Peach, and many other plants, including 
those of the flower garden and greenhouse, 
feeding underground on their roots. 

Rem. 114. Salt Water, Soap Suds. Dr. Harris 
has found that in the case of hardy plants water- 
ing with salt water was useful in destroying root 
lice, but tender herbaceous plants would suffer 
from the same treatment; these, however, he 
has assisted against the injuries of the pests by 
free and frequent watering with soap suds. 



Rem. 115. Bisulphide of Carbon. This material 
was first brought into use in France. It was ap- 
plied by puncturing the soil two or three feet 
deep under a tree or vine, or, if these were large, 
making holes four feet apart each way, into each 
of which an ounce and a half or two ounces of 
the bisulphide was poured. Very good results 
attended its use in this manner. This drug, how- 
ever, as Prof. Saunders suggests, has its draw- 
backs, namely, it has an abominable smell, it is 
explosive if brought near a light, its fumes are 
heavy and poisonous and it is too expensive to 
be employed on a large scale. 

Rem. 116. Wood Ash Lye. Mr. Deming, of the 
Missouri Horticultural Society, says he eradicates 
the pest by sprinkling with wood-ash lye. 

Rose Beetle, Chafer or Bug. (Macrodactylus 
subspinosus.) This insect, shown in Fig. 25, 
is one of the greatest pests known to the 
gardener. It devours buds, blossoms, young 
fruit, and leaves. Not only does the Rose 





Fig. 25. Rose Beetle, 
Chafer or Bug. Reme- 
dies 117, 120. 



Fig. 26. Rose Saic-fly (per- 
fect insect of Rose-slug) 
enlarged. Remedies 126 
to 131. 



suffer badly from its depredations, but en- 
tire crops of Peaches, Grapes, Apples, Cher- 
ries, vegetables, etc., have been blasted by 
the same insect. They seem to have a spec- 
ial fondness for the Ox-eye or Field Daisy; 
it is a pity they do not confine their atten- 
tions to that weed. They are of a grayish or 
ashen yellow color. Their time of attack 
continues for a month or more from the 
blossoming of garden Roses. 

Rem. 117. Jarring and Burning. Same as 59. 

Rem. 118. Hand Picking and Burning. This 
is the most common remedy for small bushes and 
not so serious as it might seem. Gather them 
early in the morning by picking or brushing into 



24 



OUR INSECT FOES j 



a vessel of water. Afterwards they should be 
burned or destroyed with kerosene. 

Rem. 119. Planting Clinton Grape-vines. It 
has been found that this insect shows a decided 
preference for the Clinton and its close allies, 
over all other varieties of the vine. It is there- 
fore suggested that in vineyards, as the beetles 
must be gathered by jarring or hand picking, 
this variety be planted for bringing the work of 
gathering them within a smaller compass. 

Rem. 120. Bisulphide of Carbon. It is stated 
from a reliable source that small vials containing 
a few drops each of this liquid tied among the 
bushes or vines affected, at intervals of a foot or 
two, the liquid being renewed occasionally, pro- 
tected them entirely, while those beyond were 
badly eaten by the beetles. 

Rose Gall. See Gall Flies and their Grubs. 

Rose-leaf Hopper. (Tettigonia rosce.) This 
little white hopper, often mistaken for 
Thrips, lives, it is believed, exclusively on 
the leaves of Roses, and is very injurious to 
them. Swarms of the perfect insect may be 
found in 'various stages of growth in the 
leaves throughout the summer, and even on 
indoor plants. 

Rem. 121. Whale Oil Soap. Same as Rem. 128. 

Rem. 122. Nicotyl Vapor. Same as Remedies 
10,65. 

Rem. 123. Infusion of Tobacco. Pour boiling 
water over cheap Tobacco or Tobacco stems so 
as to cover completely and leave it standing over 
night. Dilute for using with four or five times 
the quantity of water and apply with a syringe 
or force pump, taking care to distribute it also 
over the underside of the leaves. The applica- 
tion, like most other liquid applications to leaves 
for the prevention of insect injuries, should be 
made in the evening or early in the morning. It 
should be first applied early in the season before 
the injuries are very apparent and as soon as the 
young larvse, looking like little white specks, can 
be discovered upon the underside of the leaves. 
As often as may be needed, in order to check the 
attack, the showering with the infusion should 
be repeated. 



Rose Midges and their Maggots. One of the 
most destructive pests that growers have to 
deal with, especially in forcing the Rose, is 
this minute Fly, which attacks the flower 
buds and from which the Maggots, found 
usually in large numbers under the outer 
petals of the buds, come. These are not 
more than 1-16 in. long, and seem to have a 
strong desire to eat to the center of the bud 
as quickly as possible. 

Rem. 124. Fumigation with Tobacco. For 
Roses under glass the best remedy is to fumigate 
for 6 or 8 evenings very strongly with tobacco in 
the usual way, so as to effectually kill the fly, 
and cut off all the buds and burn them. Continue 
this treatment for 3 or 4 weeks. If the Roses 
should be outside it is more difficult to get rid of 
this pest. 

Rem. 125. Slug Shot for Outdoor Roses. Re- 
peated applications of Slug Shot is a great help, 
but the crop of flowers that are affected must be 
cut off and burned, whether outdoor or in. A 
good plan is to go carefully over every plant and 
take off every flower and burn them, then apply 
Slug Shot. In every case it is a most trouble- 
some pest to get rid off, but by persistent effort 
it can be done. 

Rose Slug and Rose Saw-fly. (Selandria 
rosce.) These pernicious vermin are known 
to all Rose growers. The Rose Saw-fly, 
shown greatly enlarged in Fig. 26, is a shiny 
black insect which appears in the latter 
part of May and up to about June 15th, and 
also again in August, the female laying its 
eggs in incisions made with its saw obliquely 
into the skin of the leaf. The young, which 
appear in from ten to fifteen days, are the 
greenish almost transparent Slugs that are 
frequently met in such great numbers feed- 
ing on Rose bushes until the whole foliage 
looks as if scorched by fire. 

Rem. 126. Tobacco. Same as 65. 

Rem. 127. Hellebore, Dry. Promptly dust the 
powdered drug lightly over the affected bushes 
by the use of a tin can with a piece of muslin tied 



HOW TO DEAL WITH. 



25 



over the end; the foliage should be moist at the 
time. Professor Lintner suggests that before 
using Hellebore its strength should be tested by 
applying a small pinch to the nostrils. If it fails 
to produce a tingling sensation it should be re- 
jected as comparatively worthless. 

Bern. 128. Whale Oil or Other Soap Suds. 
Whale oil soap dissolved in water in the propor- 
tion of two pounds of the former to fifteen gal- 
lons of water, adding also a double handful of 
salt, and with this wetting the foliage affected. 
Ordinary soap used instead of the other makes 
nearly as good a remedy. 

Bern. 129. Paris Green Solution. Same as 15. 

Bern. 130. Kerosene Emulsion. Same as 6. 

Bern. 131 . Dust. Dry air-slaked lime, plaster of 
Paris, wood ashes, or even road dust, if regularly 
and repeatedly applied, will destroy the slugs. 

Salt Water. See Remedy 114. 

Saw-flies and their Larva. There are 
numerous species of Saw Flies, and which, 
both in their perfect state as flies and in the 
larva state as slugs, live almost entirely on 
vegetable food. (See Rose Slug and Rose 
Saw-fly, Cherry and Pear Slug.) The 
name of the class is derived from an in- 
geniously contrived saw or saws with which 
the female is provided and with which she 
saws slits in the stems and leaves of plants, 
wherein the eggs are dropped and hatched. 

Bern. 132. Hellebore, Dry and Liquid. Same as 
Remedies 52, 63, 127. 

Skunks. See Quadruped Foes. 

Slug Shot. See Remedies 109, 125. 

Snails. These are often bothersome both 
to the indoor and outdoor gardener, while 
sometimes they prove to be terribly destruc- 
tive. What makes the matter of their 
attacks worse is that they do their work 
under the cover of night, hence much mis- 
chief is often done before the real cause is 
understood. 

Bern. 133. A Search at Night. A night search 
with the light of a lantern after a shower of rain, 



or in the greenhouse any night, will afford the 
best opportunity for catching large numbers of 
snails and slugs. They can then be put into a 
strong salt bath, where they will speedily die, or, 
the fowls in a confined run will be very gratef ul 
if they are thrown to them in their prison. 

Bern. 134. Trapping. The only sure method 
of dealing effectually with these pests is to lay 
traps. Pieces of Orange peel, if laid on the 
ground, may be examined in the morning with a 
fair chance of rewarding the searcher, for the 
slug is so fond of Orange peel that instead of 
returning to its home at daybreak it clings to the 
peel, and may be found underneath gorged with 
much over-feeding. Pieces of board placed 
firmly in the ground are good traps, as these keep 
the soil moist and slugs and snails love moisture 
and take refuge under them. 

Bern. 135. Paraffin Oil Solution. Apply a weak 
solution of Paraffin oil and water,— about one 
wine-glassful of oil to four gallons of water,— 
and the solution applied through a syringe to the 
plants; at the same time the surrounding surface 
of the soil must be moistened. The time to apply 
the solution is in the evening. 

Soap Suds. See Remedies 6, 22, 114, 128. 

Soluble Phenyle. See Remedy 100. 

Soot Dusting. See Remedy 66. 

Sphinges and their Larva. In the winged 
state the true Sphinges are known by the 
name of Humming-bird Moths, or Hawk 
Moths, being large Moths that are familiar 
by their flying during the twilight with 
swiftness from flower to flower, and hover- 
ing in the air like a Humming Bird. The 
worm of one of the species is the large green 
Caterpillar which infests the plants of the 
Potato and Tomato. This insect is often 
of a most repulsive size, being as thick as 
the fore-finger, and three inches or more in 
length. It is capable of doing great injury 
to the plant. Other species of these worms, 
varying somewhat in size and form, trouble 
Grape-vines and various other plants and 
trees. 



26 



OUR INSECT FOES; 



Rem. 136. Picking with Tweezers. This ap- 
pears to be the only remedy. A pair of tweezers 
easily made by anyone out of a piece of band 
iron is shown in the accompanying engraving. 
The worms may be fed to swine or be killed with 
kerosene. 

Squash Vine Borers. (Melitia curcubitce 
Harris.) This worm, which seems to be on 
the increase and in some seasons is very bad, 




Fig. 27. Hand Tweezers for gathering repulsive insects. 
Made of ordinary band iron. Remedies 136, 142. 

works in the vine mostly near the root, often 
causing the plant, after it is nearly grown 
and set with fruit, to suddenly wither and 
die. Upwards of a hundred Borers have 
been taken from a single vine. 

Bern. 137. Coal Tar. Placing Corn cobs dipped 
in coal tar among the plants about the first of 
July is known to greatly lessen the attacks by 
borers. 

Bern. 138. Cutting Oat. This, on a small scale, 
is a successful remedy. In practice one may 
soon become quite expert in discovering the lo- 
cation of the borers and digging them out with 
a knife point. 

Bern. 139. Layering. A Mr. Milton, in the 
Ohio Farmer, says that the best remedy he has 
f ound for this pest is to go through the patch 
with a hoe when the vines have attained a length 
of two or three feet and throw a large hoef ul of 
earth on the first or second joint from the hill. 
The vine will form new roots from this joint, 
which will enable it to perfect its fruit should 
the borer kill the old root. 

Squash Bug, Black. (Anasa tristisde Gecr.) 
About the last of June throughout the 
North these troublesome bugs appear on 
Squash-vines and lay their patches of eggs, 



which soon develop into troublesome broods. 
A most striking characteristic of the insect 
is its offensive odor when handled or crushed. 
As the eggs are not all laid at one time, the 
young appear in successive broods. 

Rem. 140. Plaster axel Kerosene. Same as 57. 

Rem. 141. Trapping. By laying shingles 
about the hills the bugs, after feeding in the 
night, may be found collected on the underside of 
such. Proceeding to the patch early in the morn- 
ing with a pail containing some kerosene, the 
shingles should be gently raised and the insects 
jarred or brushed into the kerosene, returning 
the shingles again for successive catches later. 

Rem. 142. Picking with Tweezers. Same as 
Remedy 136. 

Strawherry Worm. Apply Remedy 52. 

Strawberry-Crown Borer. This is an insect 
first described by Prof. Riley in 1871, and 
which is not much known outside of the 
Mississippi Valley. It bores down through 
the crown of the Strawberry plant into the 
pith. We have heard of no effective remedy. 
The plants that are injured should certainly 
be removed and burned. 

Sugar Maple Borer. Of late years this in- 
sect has become comparatively abundant as 
a destroyer of highly valued Maples. Its 
attack is usually made on perfectly healthy 
trees. In its simplest form it reveals itself 
by the bark parting longitudinally and 
breaking away, disclosing a narrow strip 
of the wood some five or six inches in 
length. On the surface of the wood can be 
seen the furrow of the grub, increasing in 
its dimensions as it descends and at the 
lower end entering into the trunk of the 
tree, or more often winds horizontally about 
half way around the trunk before entering. 
With numerous borers at work the circula- 
tion of the tree is cut off and it dies. 

Rem. 143. Killing Young Larva.— Probing. 
Professor Lintner is of the opinion that the best 
method of dealing with this pernicious borer 



HOW TO DEAL WITH. 



27 



would be to watch for the commencement of the 
operations and kill the young larva?. The eggs 
are laid in July and August. It is said that the 
place where the egg has been deposited upon the 
bark of the trunk may be detected "by a rusty 
discoloration of the bark about the size of a cent; 
and especially by the frass or castings which, to 
the length of an inch or more, are attached like 
a broken corkscrew to the bark." The larvae 
upon hatching burrow upward, remaining in the 
bark until the following spring, when they bur- 
row into the solid wood. At this season of the 
year [October] the larva? may be found beneath 
or not far from these discolored spots of egg de- 
posits. If by cutting into these the burrow is 
found to have extended too far to follow it with 
the knife without injury to the tree, a flexible 
wire may be used as a probe for reaching and 
destroying it, as is done for the notorious Apple- 
tree borer, Saperda Candida Fabr. 

Sulphur. See Remedy 113. 

Sulphuric Acid Water. (144.) This made 
in the proportion of one part of the acid to 
fifty parts of water is an effective and safe 
insecticide to be used on hardy plants. 

Swine. See Quadruped Foes to Insects. 

Thousand-Legged Worms. These are often 
confused with the Wire Worms, (which see) 
and from which they differ considerably. 
They live on Potatoes, Radishes, Carrots, 
and decaying vegetables, and have also been 
accused of destroying the plants of Cucum- 
bers, Strawberries, etc. 

Rem. 145. Gas Lime. Same as Remedy 49. 

Rem. 146. Trapping and Scalding. By laying 
boards about the garden in the evening they will 
accumulate under these in numbers, and in the 
morning can be collected and scalded. 

Thrips. Minute insects varying in size 
from that hardly perceptible to the naked 
eye to the size of a Plant Louse, and varying 
in color from whitish yellow to dark brown. 
It is an active, jumping insect, and when 
once it gets a foothold is very destructive. 
As it luxuriates in close, shady places it is 



generally found where plants are unduly 
crowded and neglected as to ventilation and 
syringing. (See Grape Leaf Hopper.) 
Rem. 147. Nicotyl. Same as No. 10, 65. 

Rem. 148. Fumigation with Tobacco. Same 
as Remedy 9. 

Rem. 149. Fir Tree Oil. Same as Remedy 24. 

Tent-Caterpillar on Apple. Rem. (150.) Hand 
Picking the Eggs. The eggs of these Caterpillars 
appear in the shape of rings on the small twigs, 




See Remedies 8, 9, 10, 



Fig. 28. Thrip very much enlarged. 

and are coated with a varnish-like substance. A 
sharp eye run over the branches in the winter 
or early spring when bare of foliage will show 
them, and then they should be removed and 
burned. 

Rem . 151. Gathering the Webs. With a forked 
stick the webs may readily be gathered in the 
spring, when they are small, by twisting them on 
the stick. 

Rem. 152. Torch Remedy. Same as Remedies 
7, 79, 158. 

Tobacco Insecticide. 
123, 124, and Nicotyl. 

Tobacco Worm. See Sphinges. 

Tomato Worm. See Sphinges. 

Torch Remedy. See Remedies 7, 79, 155. 

Trapping Insects. See Remedies 134, 146. 

Turpentine. See Remedy 101. 

Weevil. See Curculio. 

Web Worm,Fall. (Hyphantria cunea.) This 
insect is attracting increasing attention by 
its great injury in defoliating both fruit and 
shade trees, shrubs, etc., in many instances 
not a vestige of foliage remaining. Its name 
indicates the season when its webs are most 



28 



OUR INSECT FOES; 



numerous. Not only do they leave signs of 
their presence in the denuded trees, but such 
are also disfigured by old and new webs 
made by the Caterpillars, in which bits of 
leaves and leaf stems, as well as the dried 
frass has collected, producing a very dis- 
agreeable sight. 

.Rem. 153. Arsenical Poisons. Same as Rem. 43. 

Rem. 154. Pruning and Burning. On the first 
appearance of the webs they should be looked 



tumm 




Fig. 30. Fall Web Worm, the dark form, there being 
also a light one. Remedies 158, 155. 

for with care and should be cut off or burned off, 
and if cut off should be burned at once. 

Rem. 155. Torch Remedy. A little thorough 
work with some simple torch at the right time 
will in nearly every case obviate the necessity of 
any other treatment later. A campaign 
torch mounted on a long pole is one of the best 
implements for the purpose. The best substitute 
for this is perhaps a piece of porous brick pre- 
pared as suggested by Mayor Key, of Washing- 
ton. Take a piece of soft brick, commonly 
termed salmon brick, trim it to an egg shape; 
then take two soft wires, cross them over this 
brick, wrapping them together around the oppo- 
site side so as to firmly secure it; now tie this end 
to a long stick, such as the boys get at the plan- 
ing mills, by wrapping around it; then soak the 
brick in coal-oil, light it with a match, and you 
are armed with the cheapest weapon known to 
science. Holding this brick torch under the nests 
will precipitate all the worms on one or two trees 
at least from one soaking of the brick, and it can 
be repeated as often as necessary. 

Whale Oil Soap. See Remedies 6, 105, 114. 

Whiskey. See Remedy 23. 



Wire Worms. These are the hard, flatfish, 
smooth -skinned, mostly light-colored, larva 
of the Elaf ers or Snapping Beetle, but the 
name Wire Worm is often wrongfully ap- 
plied to the dark-colored, cylindrical Thous- 
and-legged Worm, (which see). They feed 
on roots of herbaceous plants, and on Po- 
tatoes, Carrots, etc., and are often very in- 
jurious. In the Beetle state they devour 
flowers and the tender leaves of plants. 

Rem. 156. Batting. This method consists in 
burying sliced Pototoes or other vegetables be- 
neath the ground in gardens, upon the end of a 
stick for convenience of examination. The slices 
should be examined every morning and the in- 
sects collected and destroyed. 

Woolly Aphis. These are not true Aphis 
or plant lice, but are known as Schizoneura 
larigera. There are two forms of the insect, 
one being usually found on the limbs and 
trunk of young trees in masses of a white, 
woolly substance, the other attacking the 




Fig. 29. The Woolly Aphis. A, root affected by the Aphis; 
b, the Aphis greatly enlarged; c, the Fly greatly 
enlarged. Remedies 157, 158. 

roots, giving them a knotty appearance, as 
at a in the annexed engraving. At b in the 
same engraving is shown a greatly enlarged 
representation of the young insect, with the 
natural size indicated, and c is the same of 
the insect in its fly state. The eggs are laid 
in autumn on the bark and remain in this 
condition through the winter. Young nur- 
sery trees are often infested with this insect. 



HOW TO IDEAL WITH. 



29 



Rem. 157. Hot Water for the Root Form. Mr. 
Saunders, in his work on Insects Injurious to 
Fruits, observes that the most successful means 
yet devised for destroying these root-lice, is the 
use of scalding- hot water, freely poured around 
the roots of the tree. If the trees are remaining 
in the soil, the roots may be laid bare, and the 
water used nearly boiling, without injury; but 
where they have been taken up for the purpose 
of transplanting, and are to be dipped in the hot 
water, the temperature should not exceed 150° 
Fahr.,— under these circumstances, from 120° to 
150° would suffice for the purpose. A mulch 
placed around the trees for some time previous 
to treatment has been found useful in bringing 
the lice to the surface, where they can be more 
readily reached by the hot water. 

Rem. 158. Kerosene Emulsion. Same as Rem- 
edies 6, 57. Prof. Forbes has recommended that 



the roots of infested nursery trees be " puddled " 
with the kerosene emulsion before sending out, 
and that if the lice are seen upon the trunks, 
these be also treated with the emulsion, applying 
with a brush, sponge or cloth. 

Worms in Pots. Sometimes a little white 
worm, entirely distinct from the Earth or 
Angle Worm elsewhere referred to, proves 
troublesome in plant pots. The following 
remedies may be counted upon as being 
effective in their destruction. 

Rem. 159. Carbolic Acid Solution. Add one 
teaspoonf ul of carbolic acid to one quart of water 
and with this water the plants. 

Rem. 160. Mustard Water. Stir a tablespoon- 
f ul of sharp Mustard in a gallon of water, repeat- 
ing the stirring at intervals for a day, then soak 
the soil with the water. 



SOME INTERESTING NOTES ON INSECTS 



AND- 




INSECT COLLECTING. 

THE word insect, which was derived from the Latin, means cut or 
notched, referring to the characteristic of this group of creatures 
found in the cross-lines or incisions that mark the body. Between these 
cross-lines are the segments or rings, consisting of numerous jointed 
pieces, more or less movable on each other. 



Organism. Insects, according to Dr. Har- 
ris in his standard treatise on this subject, 
have a very small brain, and, instead of a 
spinal marrow, a kind of knotted cord, ex- 
tending from the brain to the hinder ex- 
tremity ; and numerous small whitish 
threads, which are the nerves, spread from 
the brain and knots in various directions. 



Two long air-pipes, within their bodies, to- 
gether with an immense number of smaller 
pipes, supply the want of lungs, and carry 
the air to every part. 

Insects do not breathe through their 
mouths, but through little holes, called 
spiracles, generally nine in number, along 
each side of the body. Some, however, have 



30 



OUR INSECT FOES; 



the breathing-holes placed in the hinder ex- 
tremity, and a few young water-insects 
breathe by means of gills. 

The heart is a long tube, divided into sev- 
eral chambers, lying under the skin of the 
back, having little holes on each side for the 
admission of the juices of the body, which 
are prevented from escaping again by valves 
or clappers, formed to close the holes 
within. The blood, which is a colorless or 
yellow fluid, does not circulate in proper ar- 
teries and veins ; but is driven from the fore 
part of the heart into the head, and thence 
escapes into the body, where it is mingled 
with the nutritive juices that filter through 
the sides of the intestines, and the mingled 
fluid penetrates the crevices among the flesh 
and other internal parts, flowing along the 
sides of the air-pipes, whereby it receives 
from the air that influence which renders it 
more fitted to nourish the frame and better 
maintain life. 

In winged or adult insects, two of the 
transverse incisions with which they are 
marked are deeper than the rest, so that the 
body seems to consist of three principal por- 
tions, the first whereof is the head, the sec- 
ond or middle portion the thorax, or chest, 
and the third or hindmost the abdomen, or 
hind-body. 

The eyes of adult insects, though appar- 
ently two in number, are compound, each 
consisting of a great number of single eyes 
closely united together, and incapable of 
being rolled in their sockets. Such also are 
the eyes of the larvae, and of the active 
pupae of those insects that undergo an im- 
perfect transformation. Moreover, many 
winged insects have one, two or three little 
single eyes, placed near each other on the 
crown of the head, and called ocelli, or eye- 
lets. The eyes of grubs, caterpillars, and of 
other completely transforming larvae, are 
not compound, but consist of five or six 
eyelets clustered together, without touch- 



ing, on each side of the head ; some, how- 
ever, such as maggots, are totally blind. 

Near to the eyes are two jointed members, 
named antennae,, corresponding, for the 
most part, in situation, with the ears of 
other animals, and supposed to be connected 
with the sense of hearing, of touch, or of 
both united. The antennae are very short 
in larvae, and of various sizes and forms in 
other insects. 

The mouth of some insects is made for 
biting or chewing, that of others for taking 
the food only by suction. 

Reproduction. Insects, contrary to the 
supposition of some, are never spontaneously 
generated from putrid animals or vegetable 
matter, but are produced from eggs. A 
few, such as some plant-lice, do not lay 
their eggs, but retain them within their 
bodies till the young are ready to escape. 
Others invariably lay their eggs where 
their young; as soon as they are hatched, 
will find a plentiful supply of food immedi- 
ately within their reach. 

Change or Transformation. There are 
three periods in the life of an insect, more 
or less distinctly marked by corresponding 
changes in the form, powers and habit. 

First or Infant Period. In the first, or 
period of infancy, an insect is technically 
called a larva, a word signifying a mask, 
because therein its future form is more or 
less masked or concealed. This name is 
not only applied to grubs, caterpillars, and 
maggots, and to other insects that undergo 
a complete transformation, but also to 
young and wingless grasshoppers and bugs, 
and indeed to all young insects before the 
wings begin to appear. In this first period, 
which is generally much the longest, insects 
are always wingless, pass most of their time 
in eating, grow rapidly, and usually cast off 
their skins repeatedly. 

The second period — wherein those insects 
that undergo a partial transformation re- 



HOW TO DEAL WITH. 



31 



tain their activity and their appetite for 
food, continue to grow, and acquire the ru- 
diments of wings, while others, at this age, 
entirely lose their larva form, take no food, 
and remain at rest in a deathlike sleep — is 
called the pupa state. The pupae from 
caterpillars, however, are more commonly 
called chrysalids, because some of them, as 
the name implies, are gilt or adorned with 
golden spots ; and grubs, after their first 
transformation, are often named nymphs, 
for what reason does not appear. 

Adult Period. At the end of the second 
period, insects again shed their skins and 
come forth fully grown, and (with few ex- 
ceptions) provided with wings. Thus they 
enter upon their last, or adult state, where- 
in they no longer increase in size, and dur- 
ing which they provide for a continuation of 
their kind. This period usually lasts only a 
short time, for most insects die immediately 
after their eggs are laid, bees, wasps and 
ants affording some familiar exceptions. 

Classification. To facilitate the study 
of the myriads of insects in existence, some 
kind of a classification was found neces- 
sary, and that referred to below and relating 
to the four great divisions or orders is the 
one very generally adopted by naturalists. 
The basis of this classification is founded 
upon the structure of the mouth in the 
adult state, the number and nature of the 
wings, and the transformations. 

1. Coleoptera (embracing the Beetles). 
Adults with jaws, two thick wing-covers meeting 
in a straight line on the top of the back, and two 
filmy wings, which are folded transversely. 
Transformation complete. Larv^, called grubs, 
generally provided with six true legs, and some- 
times also with a terminal prop-leg ; more rarely 
without legs. Pupa with the wings and the legs 
distinct and unconfined. 

2. Orthoptera (Cockroaches, Crickets, Grass- 
hoppers, &c.) Adults with jaws, two rather 
thick and opaque upper wings, overlapping a lit- 
tle on the back, and two larger, thin wmgs, 



which are folded in plaits like a fan. Tra)isf<,r- 
mation partial. Larvae and Pup^e active, but 
wanting wings. 

3. Hemiptera (Bugs, Locusts, Plant-lice, &c.) 
Adults with a horny beak for suction, four 
wings, whereof the uppermost are generally 
thick at the base, with thinner extremities, 
which lie flat, and cross each other on the top of 
the back, or are of uniform thickness through- 
out, and slope at the sides like a roof. Transfor- 
mation partial. Larvae and Pup^e nearly like 
the adult insect, but wanting wings. 

4. Neuroptera (Dragon-flies, Lace-win {ted 
flies, May-flies^ Ant-lion, Day-fly, White Ants, 
&c). Adults with jaws, four netted wings, of 
which the hinder ones are the largest, and no 
sting or piercer. Transformation complete, or 
partial. Larva and Pupa various. 

5. Lepidoptera (Butterflies and Moths). 
Adults with spiral sucking-tube; wings four, 
covered with branny scales. Transformation 
complete. The Larvae are caterpiDars, and have 
six true legs, and from four to ten fleshy prop- 
legs. Pupa with the cases of the wings and of 
the legs indistinct, and soldered to the breast. 

6. Hymenoptera (Saw-flies, Ants, Wasps, 
Bees, &c.) Adults with jaws, four veined wings, 
in most species the hinder pair being the small- 
est, and a piercer or sling at the extremity of the 
abdomen. Transformation complete. Larvje 
mostly maggot-like, or slug-like ; of some, cater- 
pillar-like. Pup^e with the legs and wings un- 
confined. 

7. Diptera (Mosquitoes, Gnats, Flies, &c.) 
Adults with a horny or fleshy proboscis, two 
wings only, and two knobbed threads, called 
balancers or poisers, behind the wings. Trans- 
formation complete. The Larvae are maggots, 
without feet, and with the breathing-holes gen- 
erally in the hinder extremity of the body. 
Pup^-e mostly encased in the dried skin of the 
larva?, sometimes, however, naked, in which case 
the wings and the legs are visible, and are found 
to be more or less free and unconfined. 

Insect Collecting. Few occupations are 
more pleasant and instructive, especially to 
the cultivators of plants and trees, than 
the making of a collection of insects. The 
first thing needed for the business is a net 



32 



OUR INSECT FOES; 



made of mosquito netting in the form of a 
short bag, and which must be attached at its 
edges to a ring (say of wire, or a Willow 
twig) to be about twelve inches in diameter, 
and this to a short handle. A butterfly or 
moth caught and you give the net a twist 
so that the insect cannot fly away. 

To catch moths, which fly mainly at night, 
set a little lantern out-of-doors near a cup of 
cheap, strong-smelling molasses, and with 
net in hand capture them as they appear 
drawn to the sweets. Collect also by put- 
ting caterpillars and the leaves on which 
you find them into a box, with netting top, 
and letting them spin cocoons, or grow hard 
and dry. Cocoons or chrysalids found on 
bushes, fences etc., may similarly be boxed. 

To Kill the Insects. Provide three bot- 
tles of different sizes, into each of which 
place some cyanide of potassium for poison- 
ing the insects by placing them in the bot- 
tles. Attach a small lump of the cyanide to 
each bottle bottom by pouring over it a 
mixture of plaster of Paris and water 
to harden and hold it fast. The bottles 
should be large mouthed and have ground 
glass stoppers; any druggist can furnish 
such. Another excellent way of killing is 
to have a small vial of chloroform or ether, 
if of which a small drop is applied to the 
head of an insect it will succumb at once. 

Collecting Box. Such a one should be 
provided in which to pin the insects after 
they have been caught and killed. If possi- 
ble a thin sheet of cork, or even sliced bottle 
corks, should be glued to the bottom to hold 
the pins. So-called entomologist's pins are 
to be preferred to ordinary pins. 

Labeling. As the insects are put into the 
case they should be numbered by writing on 
a round piece of paper that is placed on the 
pin which is thrust through the insect. Then 
catalogue the numbers of the insects with 
the name of each, location and date of col- 
lecting and any oth er remarks. 



Most insects should at all stages be pinned 
through the middle of thorax (the part back 
of the head); hard-shelled beetles through 
the middle of the right wing. 

Preparation. To properly get butterflies 
in shape a pressing board is necessary. This 
is made of two pieces of common siding 
about a foot long, placing the thin edges 
toward each other, leaving a space between 
them wide enough to admit the body of the 
insect, and nailing the pieces carefully to a 
cross-piece at each end. Then with the in- 
sects in this opening, spread the wings and 
stick a needle in the board to hold each in 
place until a small strip of card-board can 
be placed over the wings on each side and 
fastened down with pins. Care must be 
taken not to rub the scales off the wings. 
If the legs are cramped under the body, 
draw them out and extend them as they ap- 
pear when the insect is walking. By a little 
practice you will be able to get them pre- 
pared in good condition. The insects should 
be left on the pressing board for one or two 
weeks. 

The Cabinet. For temporary use a good 
insect case may be made from a confection- 
ary or other light wooden box. Cover the 
inside with strips of white paper and paste 
strips of cork over the bottom, over which a 
bottom of thin white pasteboard should be 
placed. Pin the larger insects directly to 
the bottom. Very small ones should be 
glued to small, triangular pieces of card- 
board, through one end of which the pins 
are passed. Try and get the insects as near 
the same height on the pins as possible. 

For a permanent case it will be necessary 
to employ a cabinet maker to make this, as 
it must be nearly air-tight, in order to keep 
live insects from destroying the specimens. 
The best size is 14by 10 inches, and 3)4 inches 
deep. If of this size, insects can be put in 
at both the top and bottom, thus saving 
room. 



A D VER TI SEMEN TS. 



SPRAY YOUR TREES! 

And You Will Reap the Fruits of Your Labor. 




Our Double-Acting Spraying Pump 

Is the only practical and effective means of rid- 
ding trees of bugs, insects and worms, thus saving 
the trees and the fruit. We make these Pumps 
with brackets or feet that will fit an ordinary bar- 
rel, capable of holding from 40 to 50 gallons of the 
liquid to be used, according to the purpose in- 
tended. With one of Goulds' Spray Pumps at- 
tached, this barrel may be placed on a wagon or 
stone boat, and a stream directed from either one 
or both sides, as may be required, thus saving 
nearly one-half of the labor usually consumed in 
doing the same work. Spray immediately after 
blossoming with a solution of Paris Green or 
London Purple, and every Pump 

Will Save Many Times its Cost, 



SPRAY YOUR PLANTS! 







AND YOU WILL INCREASE THEIR YIELD. 

UR SPRAYING PUMP 

WITH ARMS AND SPREADERS 



Will spray eight rows of plants. Arranged upon 
a two- wheeled cart (or part of a farm wagon,) the 
driver operates the Pump with one hand and drives 
with the other. These Pumps have been in suc- 
cessful field operation for several years, and need 
but to be seen and used to be appreciated. 

Made of Brass and will not rust or 
corrode by action of any liquids. 

Address, 




kS'« ; - ! *::li 



*A 



K! 



/111- ' ■ T -' rf' '■ ' ^ 



THE GOULDS MFG. CO., 



17 to 27 FALLS STREET, 

SENECA FALLS, N. Y. 



OR 



No. 60 BARCLAY STREET, 

NEW YORK. 



II 



A D VER TI SEMEN TS. 



TO DESTROY THE CODLING MOTH 



PROFESSOR A. J. COOK, of the Michigan Agricultural 
Cc-nege, has conferred a lasting boon on American 
f nut growers in his bulletin on the Codling Moth, or 
nasty, fnthy Apple Worm. Those who have tried the 
method he recommends declare it is invaluable; that 
by it they are enabled to raise Apple crops with scarcely 
a wormy one in the lot. It is simply to spray the trees 
just at the close of blossoming time with London Pur- 
ple or Paris Green, dissolved in water. These are prep- 
arations containing arsenic. The spraying is done by 
a force pump and barrel, which is hauled through the 
orchard. An Iowa farmer named John Dixon discov- 
ered the method many years ago. He used the white 
arsenic. But this is more dangerous than the other 
preparations, because it is so apt to be mistaken for 
something else. Professor Cook gives illustrations and 
description of the Codling Moth, as follows : 




A Codling Moth and Worm. 

The Moth, F and G, is accurately represented in the 
picture in form and size. The main color is gray, 
flecked with darker dots and bars, and with a charac- 
teristic copper colored spot at the end of its front 
wings. This spot will always enable one to distinguish 
this Moth. Every Apple grower should put wormy 
Apples in a small box and rear the Moths, that there 
may be no doubt about the species. In May, about 
two weeks after the blossoms appear, the female Moth 
commences to lay eggs in the calyx of the blossom B. 
These soon hatch, when the minute larva (shown full 
grown, E) eats into the Apple and feeds upon the pulp 
around the core, filiing the space with its fecal filth. 

These spring Moths continue to come from cellar or 
Apple house until July. I have taken such Moths July 
4th on the screen of my cellar window. 

The whitish larvae attain their full growth in about 
four weeks. This period will be lengthened by cold 



and shortened by heat. When mature the larva? leaves 
the Apple, which may have fallen to the ground, and 
seeks a secluded place in which to spin its cocoon (I) and 
pupate. The pupa or chrysalis (D) is much like those of 
other Moths. The pupa? of the June and July larvae 
are found in the cocoons soon after the latter are 
formed, while those of the autumn larvae do not pupate 
till spring, but pass the winter as larvae in the cocoons. 
The eggs of the second brood are laid in July, August 
and September. The larvae feed in autumn and often 
till in mid-winter, while as just stated, they do not 
pupate till spring. 

Professor Cook prefers London Purple to Paris Green, 
because it is cheaper ar easier to mix in the water. 
The mixture is as fol ^ws: I mix the powder one 
pound to fifty gallons of water. It is best to wet the 
powder thoroughly and make a paste before putting 
into the vessel of water, that it may all mix, and not 
form lumps. For a few trees we may Use a pail and the 
Champion Force Pump, manufactured by the Field 
Force Pump Company ,at Lockport, N. Y. For large 
orchards, use " Field's Farmers' Force Pump," manu- 
factured by the same company. Always keep the 
liquid well stirred. One pail of the liquid will do for 
the largest tree. A teaspoonf ul of the poison is enough 
for a pailful of water. For a large orchard a common 
barrel should be used, drawn in a wagon. I prefer to 
have the barrel stand on end, with a close movable 
float with two holes through it, one for the pipe or hose 
from the pump, and the other for a stirrer. If very 
large orchards are to be treated, a good force pump 
should be fastened to the barrel. In Western New 
York the handle of the pump is attached to the wagon 
wheel, so that no hand power is required other than to 
drive the team and manage the pipe that carries the 
spray. This apparatus is also manufactured by the 
Field Force Pump Company, at Lockport, N.Y. The 
spray may be caused by a fine perforated nozzle, or a 
''BOSS " nozzle. The finer it is the less liquid will be 
required. The important thing is to scatter the spray 
on all the fruit, and get just as little on as possible. 
The larva is killed by eating the poison, and we find 
that the faintest trace suffices for the purpose. Again, 
the posion should be applied early, by the time the 
fruit is the size of a pea. I have found one such appli- 
cation to work wonders. There is no doubt but that 
the first application, followed by one or two others at 
intervals of two or three weeks, would be more 
thorough, yet I have found one application, made early, 
so effective that I have wondered whether it was best 
or necessary to make more than one application. I do 
think, however, that it must be early. In May or June 
the calyx of the Apple is up and so the poison is retained 
sufficiently long to kill most all of the insects. 

The terrible Canker Worm and the destructive Tent 
Caterpillar, as well as the Plum Gouger, which makes 
such sad havoc in Wisconsin with the Apple crop, will 
very likely find their death warrants in this remedy. 

The danger from this practice I have found to be 
nothing at all. The microscope and chemical analysis 
have both shown that all the poison has been removed 
long before we wish to eat the fruit. The wind no less 
than the rain helps to effect this removal, as I have 
shown by putting the poison on plants sheltered from 
all rains. Of course we should not turn stock into an 
orchard till a heavy rain has washed the poison from 
all herbage under the trees. 



A D VER TI SEMEN TS. 



Ill 




rnurr 



i 



BBIDOEPORT OHIO 

Strawberries, Raspberries, Blackberries, 

Grapes, Currants and Gooseberries. 

My stock of plants is the finest in the coun- 
SEND FORCATALOCUE. try, as I grow to retain vital points in fruit 

and increase size and quality. My patrons say my plants are the finest 
they have ever seen, and praise given by the work is better than self. 

My Carmichael Seedling is the latest Strawberry on the market. This 
year we picked the first June 15. May King and Crescent ripened first 
May 20 to 25; it continues through Raspberry time, ripens with Sonhegan 
and Doolittle. I quote from my commission merchant, the largest in 
Wheeling, W. Va., the only man that has ever sold any of the fruit: 



E. 



W. REID: 

Dear Sir — Your Carmichael Seedling is by long odds the most valuable Strawberry 
now on the market. Coming as it does so very late (long after most every other variety is 
gone), and being so large and a fine flavored berry, it not only commands the highest 
price of any Strawberry coming to the market, (as you know by returns), but the demand 
is always greater than the supply. Yours very respectfully, 

W. O. M'CLUSKEY, 
Fruit Commission Merchant, Wheeling, W. Va. 

I always keep all new varieties of all kinds of fruit. Persons order- 
ing direct from me, get fresh plants and true to name. I pack and 
ship same day as plant is taken from the soil. All information given in 
regard to new varieties. Send for catalogue and prices on large lots, 
at low prices, fresh from the grower. 

E. W. REID, Horticulturist, Bridgeport, O. 



IV 



A D VER Tl SEMEN TS. 



Reliable Agents started in Business without Capital. 

Write for Particulars. My Agents are making $5, $10, $15, $20, $25 and $30 per day. 

Force-Pump, Potato Bug Exterminator, and Veterinary Syringe Combined. 

$12. CO worth of Machines (all polished brass) sent prepaid to any express station in the 
United States and Canada for $5.50. 




LEWIS'S COMBINATION FORCE-PUMP. 

Makes three machines, as shown in cut- Made of Polished Urass. Parts interchange- 
able. Each machine complete in itself. Just what is needed by every Farmer. Gar- 
dener, Nurseryman, Florist, Stockman, &c. Another new improvement just added is 

LEWIS'S PATENT SPRAY ATTACHMENT FOR FRUIT TREES. 

Is the best arrangement for spraying Fruit Trees in the world. Can change from solid stream to spray 
instantly, while pumping. It is the best, most powerful, easiest-working, and cheapest first-class Pump 
in the world. Regular retail price, $6.00, Weight, 4% pounds; length, 32 inches. I also manu- 



facture separate the 



POTATO BUG EXTERMINATOR. 



The machine, with spray, is shown at upper left-hand corner of cut. Price, post-paid, zinc, 
$1.25; polished brass, $1.75. Over FIFTEEN THOUSAND sold in seven months. I 

challenge the world for its equal. Can do from three to five acres per day. One pound of Paris Green 
will give an acre three separate dressings. For Syringing Fruit Trees infested with insects of any 
kind, it stands unrivaled. Send for Illustrated Catalogue. Price-List, and terms to Agents, etc. I give 
the names and addresses of many of my agents who make from $10 to $30 in a single day; also a long 
list of my customers, each of whom has bought from $50 to $2000 worth of these goods in from one to 
three weeks' time. Farmers and canvassers can make from $10 to $20 per day. I give the largest 
profits and furnish the fastest-selling article in the United States to-day. AGENTS WANTED EVERY- 
WHERE. Goods guaranteed as represented or money refunded. 

LEWIS & COWLES, Catskill, N. Y. 

"We have examined and tested the above goods and fully endorse what Mr. Lewis says."— Prof. C. 
V. Riley, U. S. Entomologist. Prof. Cook, Peter Henderson, and others, highly recommend them. 



ADVER TISEM EN TS. 



Standard Rural Books published and for sale by the Popular Gardening 
Publishing Co., Buffalo, N.Y., by mail post-paid. 

Bailey's Field-Notes on Apple Culture. Useful and 
thoroughly practical. Cloth, 12mo. - $0.75 

Barry's Fruit Garden. A standard work on Fruits 
and Fruit Trees, Invaluable to all Fruit grow- 
ers. Illustrated. Cloth, 12 mo. - - - 2.00 

Black's Cultivation of the Peach and the Pear on 
the Delaware and Chesapeake Peninsula, 1.50 

Brill's Farm Gardening and Seed Growing. Cloth, 1.00 

Brill's Cauliflowers: How to Grow Them. Paper, .30 

Chorlton's Grape-Grower's Guide, for each Depart- 
ment of Hot-House, Cold Grapery, etc. Ills. .75 

Cook's Bee-keeper's Guide, - - - 1.25 

Downing's Fruits and Fruit Trees of America. The 
Culture, Propagation and Management, in the 
Garden and Orchard, of Fruit Trees Generally. 
Nearly 400 outline Illustrations. 8vo. - 5.00 

Ellwanger On the Rose, .... 1.05 

Elliott's Hand-Book for Fruit Growers. .60 and 1.00 

Every Women her own Flower Gardener. Cloth; 1.00 

Fitz's Sweet Potato Culture. Cloth, 12mo. - .60 

Fruit Pastes, Syrups and Preserves. By Shirley 
Dare, .25 

Fuller's Practical Forestry. On Propagation, Plant- 
ing and Cultivation, with a description of all 
the indigenous trees of the United States, 1.50 

Fuller's Small Fruit Culturist. Rewritten, - 1.50 

Fuller's Grape Culturist. Full directions for Propa 
gation, Culture, etc. 105 engravings. 

Fuller's Illustrated Strawberry Culturist. 



1.50 
.25 

Fuller's Propagation of Plants. Describing Hybjid- 
izing and Crossing, and many different morles 
by which plants may be multiplied. Cloth, 1.50 
Fulton'3 Peach Culture. In the Delaware region 1.50 
Gray's How Plants Grow, ... - 1.25 

Gray's How Plants Behave, ... .65 

Gray's Manual of Botany and Lessons, - 4.00 

Gray's Structural Botany, - - - 2.30 

Green's Fish Hatching and Fish Catching. - 1.50 

Gregory on Cabbages: How to Grow Them. Paper .30 
Gregory on Onion Raising. Paper cover, - .30 

Gregory on Squashes. Paper cover, - - .30 

Gregory on Fertilizers. Paper cover, - - .40 

Halliday's Azalea Culture, - - - 2.00 

Halliday's Camellia Culture, - - - - 2.00 

Harris' Talks on Manures. A series of practical 
Talks on the whole subject of Manures and 
Fertilizers. Cloth, 12mo. - - - 1.75 

Harris's Gardening for Young and Old. A work 
on Farm-Gardening, which means a better and 
more profitable form of Agriculture, Cloth, 1.25 

Henderson's Gardening for Profit. New Edition. 
Enlarged. The standard work on Market and 
Family Gardening; profusely illustrated. 2.00 

Henderson's Gardening for Pleasure. Includes 
Fruit, Vegetable, and Flower-Gardening, Green- 
houses and Graperies, Window-Gardening, etc. 1.50 
Henderson's Practical Floriculture. A very com- 
plete treatise on the cultivation of flowers un- 
der glass, for pleasure or as a matter of trade. 1.50 



Henderson's Hand Book of Plants. A dictionary 
of Useful and Ornamental Plants, with instruc- 
tions on Propagation and Culture. Large 8vo. $3.00 
Hoopes' Book of Evergreens. The standard work 

on this subject. Illustrated. Cloth, 12mo. 3.00 

Hough's Elements of Forestry, - - - 2.00 

Husmann's American Grape-Growing and Wine- 
Making. The author is a recognized authority, 1. 50 
Johnson's How Crops Grow. A Treatise on the 

Chemical Composition, and Life of the Plant. 2.00 
Johnson's How Crops Feed on the Atmosphere and 

the Soil, as related to Plants. - - - 2.00 

Johnson's Gardener's Dictionary, - - - 3.00 

Johnson's Winter Greeneries at Home. - 1.00 

Leland's Farm Homes, Indoors and Outdoors. 1.50 
Long's Home Florist. A Treatise on Flowers and 

other plants, designed for the use of Amateurs, 1.25 
Long's Ornamental Gardening for Americans. A 
Treatise on Beautifying Homes, Rural Districts 
and Cemeteries. Illustrated. Cloth, 12mo. 2.00 

Oemler's Truck Farming at the South for North- 
ern markets. Illustrated. Cloth, 12mo. - 1.50 
Our Insect Foes; How to Deal With. 160 Remedies. .25 
Packard's Half Hours with Insects. Cloth, 12mo. 2.50 
Parsons on the Rose. Embracing Propagation, Cul- 
ture and History. Enlarged edition. - 1.50 
Popular Gardening and Fruit Growing. Vol. 1 and 
2 unbound, each, $1.25; bound in cloth, each, 
$1.75 ; the two vols, in one, $3.00 :in half sheep 

$2.50 and 3.75 
Purdy's Small Fruit Instructor, -25 

Quinn's Pear Culture for Profit. Teaching how to 

raise Pears intelligently. Illustrated. - 1.00 
Quinn's Money in the Garden. Devoted to the 

Kitchen, Market and Field Garden - 1.50 

Reed's House Plans for Everybody. - 1.50 

Register of Rural Affairs, 9 vols. Each, - - 1.50 

Roe's Play and Profit in my Garden. Cloth, 12mo. 1.50 
Roosevelt's Five Acres Too Much. Cloth, 12mo. 1.50 
Root's A B C of Bee-Culture. Cloth. Large octavo, 1.25 
Saunder's Insects Injurious to Fruit, - - 3.00 

Scott and Morton's Soil of the Farm. Cloth, 12mo. 1.00 
Stoddart's An Egg Farm. - - - - .50 

Strong's Fruit Culture, .... 1.00 

Thomas' American Fruit Culturist. Treating on the 
Propagation and Culture of all fruits adapted to 
the United States. 508 accurate figures. - 2.00 
Thompson's. Fruit Culture under Glass, - - 3.75 

Treat's Injurious Insects of the Farm and Garden. 

New and Enlarged Edition. Fully Illustrated. 2.00 
Warder's Hedges and Evergreens, - - 1.50 

Waring's Draining for Profit and Health. A very 

complete and practical treatise. Illustrated. 1.50 
Webb's Cape Cod Cranberries. Paper, 12mo. - .40 
White's Gardening for the South. An admirable 

treatise on gardening in general. Illustrated. 2.00 
White's Cranberry Culture. Illustrated. 1.25 

Wood's Classbook of Botany, - - - 3.50 

Wright's Practical Poultry Keeper. A guide on 

poultry for domestic use, market,exhibition,etc. 2.00 
Your Plants. In the House and in the Garden. Paper. .40 



VI 



ADVER TI SEMEN TS. 



AN INFALLIBLE INSECTICIDE 



1880. 



WITH A GOLDEN RECORD. 1888. 



tgpOver 1000 tons of 
it used in S years with 
safety to Man, Beast and 
Fowl. 




flSpIts efficacy ^is con- 
ceded by all who make 
thorough tests. 



Is an impalpable powder, a combination of insecticides, poisonous to insects preying upon vege- 
tation, and withal an excellent fertilizer, affecting nearly all classes of insect life, so that they 
either die, or leave for parts unknown. 

It kills the Potato Bugs and gives a good crop of Potatoes. 

It kills the Black Fleas on Cabbage, Turnips, Beets, Radishes, and Egg Plants. Apply by 
du-ting over the plant. 

It kills the Cahhage Worm and also the Currant and Gooseberry Worm. The Aphis or Green 
Fly on Roses and other flowers. 

Has prevented the ravages of the Curculio and Canker Worm on fruit trees ; has likewise been 
used around Beans, Melons, Squash, &c. , to the detriment of the ravages of the Cut Worms. 

Keeps the Striped Bugs from all Vine Crdps. 

For full information and testimonials from all sections of the United States, send for pam- 
phlet, "Hammond's Slug Shot and its Uses," to Fishkill-on-the-Hudson, N. Y. 

Slug Shot is put up in tin canisters, 25 cents; also in five and ten-pound bags, and in flour 
barrels loose, that contain 235 lbs. each. It is applied by duster or bellows. 



SOLD BY THE SEEDSMEN OF AMERICA, 



ADVERTISEMENTS. VI 



TREES, SHRUBS, ROSES, 



-AND. 



AT LOW PRICES. 

ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE FREE. 



HOW TO GROW 

TRAWBERRIE S 

AND OTHER FRUITS. 

A complete manual, telling how to prepare the ground, plant, prune, 
cultivate, pick, and market. 

It is sent for ten cents postage. 

" E. D. Putney has a happy faculty of packing much useful information 
in few words.' 1 — Editor Farm Journal. 

Parties wishing to plant lawns, avenues and parks with ornamental 
trees should correspond with us before placing their orders. 

PUTNEY & WOODWARD, 

BRENTWOOD, N. Y. 



VIII 



A D VER TI SEMEN TS. 




The Nixon Nozzle & Machine Go. 

MANUFACTURE 

SPRAYING MACHINES 

For using INSECT POISONS on Fruit Trees, Berry 
Bushes, Potatoes, Tobacco and all herbage. They are 
the first practical method invented for applying 
insecticides rapidly and cheaply enough to make 
them a paying necessity to all growers. They are 
as indispensable as the plow or mower. 

The Field and Orchard Machine 

is used in large orchards and Potato fields, and the 
work done is incredible. HUMPHREY BROS., Wake- 
man, Ohio, say they ''sprayed from 30 to 40 acres of 
Potatoes in a day, and destroyed entirely the Potato 
bug or beetle." 

1 ,500 Apple or Orange Trees ™ Sprayed ? Day 

OUR BARREL MACHINE CAN BE USED AS WELL, BUT UPON 

A SMALLER SCALE. 

FRANK P. SILL, of Westonville, Ohio, sprayed 440 large Apple trees with our 
LITTLE GIANT in eight hours. 

We make Machines for use on Lawns, in Gardens, Conserva- 
tories, Greenhouses, Flowers and Shrubs, promoting growth, and 
killing Insects from the Spray, from a Hand Machine to one 
drawn by horses. 

We Manufacture and Sell ivith our Machines 

INSECT POISONS 

With Full Directions for Use, 

The Cultivating of Fruit Trees and Orchards, 
and the Raising of Potatoes, may be made entirely 
successful and largely profitable by using our 
Machines and Poisons. Send for 
descriptive Price-List. Address 

NIXON NOZZLE & MACHINE CO., Dayton, O 




A RE YOU INTERESTED IN FRUITS, 

FLOWERS, LAWNS, VEGETABLES, &c? 



o«o 





^HEN you are interested in what a prom- 
inent cultivator recently said of 
Popular Gardening and Fruit Growing, 
as follows : 

" It is doing more than any other one 
agency to popularize good methods of culture 
in general gardening, and in leading to large 
profits for market growers." 
In style Popular Gardening and Fruit Growing is 
exceptionally practical, terse and sprightly. It treats of the 
things that cultivators like to know and which they find help- 
ful in their work. It isprofusely illustrated with engravings of a practical 
nature. Its contributors embrace America's most successful cultivators 
of Fruits, Vegetables, Flowers, Trees, Plants, etc. 

This paper must be seen to be appreciated,' and a specimen copy will 
be mailed to any address on receipt of ten cents in stamps. Or better yet, 
if $1.00 is sent it will pay for a year's subscription. 

No one having an interest in gardening, even if it be but to the extent 
of a few pot plants or a town lawn, or from these up to an extensive nursery, 
market or fruit garden, should be without the monthly visits of this unique 
journal. It solicits the further acquaintance of all friends of horticulture. 

Popular Gardening and Fruit Growing, 



BUFFALO, N. Y. 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 




00D0flAHfl750 






! 



